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 ADVANCED
The First Corridor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acme Top Rope Wall S,TR 
Agua Negro S 
Before The Storm T,S 
Bilbo Surfs Galveston S 
Brand X Top Rope Wall TR 
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout) S 
Leather & Lace  S 
Middle Earth T 
Pain at the Pump S 
Pick Pocket  T 
Pocket Change S 
Rise and Shine S 
Sophie's Choice S 
Spider's Line S 
Unknown S 
Unknown 5.11a (a.k.a. the Booty Route) S 
Unsorted Routes:

Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,854
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on May 22, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Working the moves on "Itsy Bitsy Spider."

Description 

Begin 15 feet left of "Agua Negro." Climb the low angle pocketed face past three bolts. Clip a 4th bolt and move up and left on good pockets, including a mono-digit, and dicey feet. After clipping the 5th bolt move right and pull through the bulge to large pockets and inclusions and two more bolts to the anchors.


Location 

On the right (east) wall of the Elephant's Head (aka Hyperion Slab), 15 feet left of the black water streak of "Agua Negro." Begin on the low angle slab, below the bulging buttress, just left of the prominent oak tree.


Protection 

7 bolts and 2-ring Fixe anchors.



Photos of Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout) Slideshow Add Photo
Sandy working the lower moves on "Itsy Bitsy Spider."
Sandy working the lower moves on "Itsy Bitsy Spide...
Pulling pockets on "Itsy Bitsy Spider."
Pulling pockets on "Itsy Bitsy Spider."
Frank stretching out on "Itsy Bitsy Spider"
Frank stretching out on "Itsy Bitsy Spider"
The Itsy Bitsy Spider
The Itsy Bitsy Spider
Kevin leading
Kevin leading
Pulling through the crux of "Itsy Bitsy Spider."
Pulling through the crux of "Itsy Bitsy Spider."
Comments on Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout) Add Comment
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By Dwook
Feb 22, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Did this today...Thought it was fun. I really liked the little mono pocket half way up.

By NancyM
From: Acton, California
Jun 10, 2013

Led this today. The fifth bolt up spins 180 degrees, and I can see that it's jutting a bit from the rock--made me nervous. Enjoyed the climb though!

By NancyM
From: Acton, California
Jun 22, 2013

I heard that 2 days after my post (June 12), a climber actually pulled the bolt straight out. Doesn't sound like anyone was hurt; the climber pulled it out purposely, but I guess no more leading that one until Ben does his magic with the drill :)

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Aug 2, 2013

As of 08-01-13 the missing 5th bolt has been replaced and "Itsy Bitsy Spider" is good to go.

By NancyM
From: Acton, California
Aug 2, 2013

Thank you so much, Ben, for replacing the 5th bolt!! You're the best!!!!! We'll be out climbing tomorrow morning if you and Pam happen to be there :)
We noticed several new routes on the far right side of the Acme Top Rope Wall. There are three nice ones there, and I wondered if anyone had any information about names and ratings. We've been enjoying them, whoever put them up. Thanks again!

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Aug 3, 2013

Left to Right (as you face the rock): Poke Salad Annie (5.8), Urban Cowboy (5.9), Lonestar (510d/11a), and Amarillo By Morning (5.10a/b).

By BAd
Dec 7, 2013

Thanks, Ben! We've met you and Sophie a few times. My wife and I and Django (border collie mix) love your routes. I think we've only met Pam once. Looking forward to trying some of the new ones.