It's Time to Drink Beer
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Leah Sandvoss on "It's Time to Drink Beer" (5.12a)...
Steep but more positive-than-they-look holds lead past the first three bolts with good clipping stances. Move up to the lip/bulge on good holds and clip the fourth bolt just over the lip. Watch out with short draws because the rope carabiner sits right on the lip and can get pushed open. Consider a long draw or doubled draws on this bolt.
Then blast into the thin, gaston-action crux to get over the lip. Grab some welcomed larger holds, clip the fifth bolt and trend left to the shared anchor with Village Cobbler
. This climb does not have its own anchor.
The middle route on the east side of the beer block (to the right of Village Cobbler)
4 bolts to anchors
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 13, 2014
Who sez there ain't slab climbing at el rito?