Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment 
Acid Crack 
Acid Rock 
AHR 
Bihedral 
Bihedral Arete 
Blood Diamond 
Case of the Fags 
Crack Variation 
Dan's Line 
Daydreaming 
Diamonds and Rust 
Dihedral Variation 
Edge of Reality 
Fat Tuesday 
Flags of Our Fathers 
Flesh Eating Flies 
Group Therapy 
Heterohedral 
High Hard One 
Hold The Line 
It's Time For Change 
Just Putin Around 
Left-Handed Tool 
Loose Blocks [in the Black Band] 
Night Moves 
Oh Boy 
Pariah 
Puff Daddy 
Rhodian Shores 
Rhodian, Naturally 
Sands of Iwo Jima 
Sun Spot 
Thumb Tack 
Tool King 
Trick or Treat 
Where's Ray? 

It's Time For Change 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ron Olsen and Bob D'Antonio, 1/20/09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,014
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jan 20, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Getting ready to mount the very fractured arete.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

It's Time For Change is dedicated to Barack Obama, who was inaugurated as the 44th President of the United States on the day of the first ascent.

Fun moves and exhilarating exposure make this one of the best moderate routes at the crag.

Climb Night Moves past the first three bolts to a good ledge. Continue up a short right-facing corner to another ledge. Stem up a steep dihedral and pull left onto an airy arete (crux). Follow the arete to the anchor.

Note: Climb almost straight up the arete; don't go too far left or you'll miss the bolts and the anchor.


Location 

On the big shelf on the left side of the Bihedral, where Night Moves and Diamonds and Rust begin. The route shares the first three bolts with Night Moves before splitting off to the left.


Protection 

8 bolts and three optional gear placements (yellow Alien, green #.75 and yellow #2 Camalots). Two-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Strong leaders may be happy with just the bolts.



Photos of It's Time For Change Slideshow Add Photo
Lucy cleaning the anchor on It's Time For Change.
Lucy cleaning the anchor on It's Time For Change.
Fredrik enjoying the slab before the fractured arÍte, vertical, but quite easy.
Fredrik enjoying the slab before the fractured arÍ...
Comments on It's Time For Change Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 17, 2014
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jan 26, 2009

Nice addition guys. I was wondering if someone else would have put up a commemorative route on such an auspicious day. My own commemorating was a new crag, Inaugural Crag, and a new route installed, prepped, and ready to go, but not yet red pointed (Ascendancy). The change has begun.

By John Maguire
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 7, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Really fun route and great place to climb sport. Nice to see you on the climb, Ron. Thanks again for all your work here.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 22, 2009

Fun route with some wild moves! Let's hope the crux block doesn't feel it's time for change. There are several loose appearing blocks near the crux but upon closer inspection they seem solidly wedged.

By jcntrl
From: Smoulder, CO
May 9, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Beware some loose rock in the crack near the crux block towards the top. It shouldn't be a problem, just be mindful of what you pull on (as you should always...).

Bolts are where you need 'em, but there is a section of fairly runout easy climbing. No problem; bring some gear if it makes you feel better, or just keep your wits about you as you make easy moves to the next bolt.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
May 12, 2009

Fun route, but there is some very suspect rock making up the arete. Hope it does not "Change" any time soon.

By Sonny Jeon
May 20, 2009

Good fun route with some nice exposure. There is definitely some loose rock. I nearly pulled off a chicken head while climbing it near the second bolt. Looks like people use that hold a lot, and it's bound to go sometime. Some of the boulders on the arete also looks suspect. They are bomber now, but may loosen up after time.

By Tom Shelly
Aug 25, 2009

I also agree with the previous post's about the large rock right below bolt #7 at the crux. It was very loose when I arrived at the crux and I stopped the climb because of it. It needs to be cleared off safely by strapping it and lowering it down. Being that it is right at the crux, I would not climb this route till it is taken care of properly.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

The loose block is a detractor. That thing is more than big enough to kill a belayer or several people on the lower left crag. It would pinball down the corner right to the belayer too- so death is not some remote possibility, it is real. This should be cleaned in a controlled fasion with a verified CLEAR lower tier.
Otherwise, the route is long and varied, and so not bad.

By David A
From: Broomfield, CO
Sep 21, 2011

I'm down for the trundling expedition for the loose block.

By George Bracksieck
May 4, 2012

Seems like all of the loose blocks are still there. The 15x12-inch block wedged like a chockstone may actually help keep the much bigger one on its right from collapsing to the left. Maybe better to leave it. Just above, the next-to-last (7th?) bolt is placed in a big block that vibrated when I pounded on it with my hand. Alpine training or Russian roulette?

By Andy B
2 days ago

I found this route a lot of fun. Very varied compared to all the other slab routes nearby. A little spicey with bad landing if you don't use any cams.

That big loose block by the 7th clip is still there. It made a grinding sound when I unknowingly pulled on it.