2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
It's Time For Change is dedicated to Barack Obama, who was inaugurated as the 44th President of the United States on the day of the first ascent.
Fun moves and exhilarating exposure make this one of the best moderate routes at the crag.
Climb Night Moves past the first three bolts to a good ledge. Continue up a short right-facing corner to another ledge. Stem up a steep dihedral and pull left onto an airy arete (crux). Follow the arete to the anchor.
Note: Climb almost straight up the arete; don't go too far left or you'll miss the bolts and the anchor.
On the big shelf on the left side of the Bihedral, where Night Moves and Diamonds and Rust begin. The route shares the first three bolts with Night Moves before splitting off to the left.
8 bolts and three optional gear placements (yellow Alien, green #.75 and yellow #2 Camalots). Two-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Strong leaders may be happy with just the bolts.
Nice addition guys. I was wondering if someone else would have put up a commemorative route on such an auspicious day. My own commemorating was a new crag, Inaugural Crag, and a new route installed, prepped, and ready to go, but not yet red pointed (Ascendancy). The change has begun.
By John Maguire From: Boulder, CO Feb 7, 2009 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
Really fun route and great place to climb sport. Nice to see you on the climb, Ron. Thanks again for all your work here.
Fun route with some wild moves! Let's hope the crux block doesn't feel it's time for change. There are several loose appearing blocks near the crux but upon closer inspection they seem solidly wedged.
By jcntrl From: Smoulder, CO May 9, 2009 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Beware some loose rock in the crack near the crux block towards the top. It shouldn't be a problem, just be mindful of what you pull on (as you should always...).
Bolts are where you need 'em, but there is a section of fairly runout easy climbing. No problem; bring some gear if it makes you feel better, or just keep your wits about you as you make easy moves to the next bolt.
Good fun route with some nice exposure. There is definitely some loose rock. I nearly pulled off a chicken head while climbing it near the second bolt. Looks like people use that hold a lot, and it's bound to go sometime. Some of the boulders on the arete also looks suspect. They are bomber now, but may loosen up after time.
I also agree with the previous post's about the large rock right below bolt #7 at the crux. It was very loose when I arrived at the crux and I stopped the climb because of it. It needs to be cleared off safely by strapping it and lowering it down. Being that it is right at the crux, I would not climb this route till it is taken care of properly.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jun 16, 2010 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
The loose block is a detractor. That thing is more than big enough to kill a belayer or several people on the lower left crag. It would pinball down the corner right to the belayer too- so death is not some remote possibility, it is real. This should be cleaned in a controlled fasion with a verified CLEAR lower tier. Otherwise, the route is long and varied, and so not bad.
Seems like all of the loose blocks are still there. The 15x12-inch block wedged like a chockstone may actually help keep the much bigger one on its right from collapsing to the left. Maybe better to leave it. Just above, the next-to-last (7th?) bolt is placed in a big block that vibrated when I pounded on it with my hand. Alpine training or Russian roulette?