Its Only Rock and Roll
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|Type: ||Trad, 5 pitches, 710 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.9 [details]|
|FA: ||Shingo Ohkawa Andy Ross Paul Ross (var leads) 3/21/2012|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Mar 29, 2012|
BETA PHOTO: A) Its Only Rock and Roll. 710' 5.9
A superb climb with great situations. The hike to the formation takes just over an hour from Two Finger canyon camp.Starts slightly left of center up a left facing groove( see topo )
P1)Climb the groove that has good cam and wire placements and four pro bolts. to double Anchors slightly to the right right of its end. 200'5.9.
P2)Up slab on left past one bolt to double anchors on massive ledge system.60'5.5.
P3)Scramble up about 40'to a narrow ledge and follow down to the right to the start of an obvious right facing groove.140'
P4)Another excellent pitch .Climb the groove, good cam and wire placements and three pro bolts. Trend to the right near its top to double anchors below a left leaning groove. 170' 5.7.
P5).Follow easy groove to the summit and double anchors to the right.150'5.4
Register in small cairn.
Descent.Rap to anchors at top of the last pitch, then to the anchors on the top of P2 then from here to ground.
Drive the road to Two Finger Canyon. From here hike south on the flats .When entrance to One Finger Canyon is reached (about 30mins)walk to near its mouth then hike up to the left to where it levels .Continue to the formation (see topo)
Two 60m ropes.cams 1/2" to 3". wires.
The summit of its "Only Rock and Roll" from camp a...
Higher on P1
Tele photo on the 5.9 section. P1
Nearing top of P1
Andy following P1
Paul on P2
Shingo belaying Andy on P4
Higher on P4
Paul folloving P4. Photo Andy Ross
Top out pics.Andy and Shingo arrive on the summit...
Paul and Shingo. View to the north.
Andy and Shingo.
Heading back to camp .La Sal Mountains in the dist...
Birthday party at Two Fingers Canyon.
Now remember 60' between bolts,,, even if it is yo...
Shingo ready for take off.photo Andy Ross