It's Only Entertainment 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on Nov 19, 2008 |
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Photo by Dave Vuono. Jeremey Dowdey run out on th...
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Description Hands down, this is THE most photogenic, and possibly the most celebrated single-pitch crack climb in all of the Adirondacks. One can comfortably sit on top of the boulder directly in front of the route and view the extremes (i.e. big whipper potential from the crux)of climber television, first hand.
Start out below the same ramp that leads up to the airy outside corner of Esthesia. Once established at the bottom of the corner, step around the arete to the face and sink your mitts into the perfect right-to-left rising crack. Continue jamming your way up the never-ending crack to the right side of the obvious traverse--the crux. This section alone clocks in at a pumpy 10c/d and can melt your endurance quick, so it's best to practice good conservation and efficiency here.
Place a couple of pieces before the traverse, rest on some good holds, then fire the 15 foot traverse, sans gear, to keep the pump at bay. Get to the end and place a critical yellow TCU or Alien high in the vertical crack then fire the remaining 15 feet of the route.
Location The obvious right-to-left rising crack to the left of Esthesia.
Protection A standard rack with good selection of nuts, and small to mid-size gear.
Myself getting into the crack. Photo by Alexa Sieg...
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Moving up the crack. Photo by Alexa Siegel
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Small feets! Photo by Alexa Siegel
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| Comments on It's Only Entertainment |
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By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Nov 21, 2008
| You just did a route you think is the most photogenic, but you've submitted no photos? Come on, let's see it! |
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Nov 23, 2008
| Thanks, Gabe, for the prod in the rear! The photos will be posted soon. |
By CCliffe
Aug 3, 2011
| super classic. super fun. i found that this route breaks up rather nicely-a few tough moves, rest and place gear, repeat. |
By colin rickert
From: Ottawa, ON
Jun 11, 2012
| This line feels way harder than Romano's and Fear and Loathing. Don't know if i was doing it right or not but I followed it yesterday and it felt super desperate - almost 5.12a (though it was baking in the sun and I suspect that made it harder). My buddy Casey led it after flashing Fear and Loathing and struggled with it having to take twice for some long rests (he had also dispatched of Romano's and White Knight 2nd go fairly easily a couple weeks back). |
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
May 14, 2013
rating: 5.11d
| There is a reasonable blue TCU (#1) about half way along the traverse. |
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