It's Better with Bacon is a good route on a nice slab on Hogwild. The star rating is for the first 3 pitches.
P1: start up a thin right trending crack. when it peters out, step right into another very thin right trending crack. The cracks are very thin, and take small nuts, but the moves are slab moves.
P2: Straight up a 5.6 slab past 3 protection bolts.
P3: Up a 12' crack to a bolted 5.6 slab. There is a 5.8 roof that must be surmounted at the end of the pitch, very fun!
Walk 100 yards past the beginning of the Hogwild until you see the two thin cracks of the first pitch that both trend up and right at a 45 degree angle, on a clean slab broken by good belay ledges.
bolts, gear to 1", small nuts and micronuts. All anchors bolted. You can rap the route with one 60m rope
thin crack pitch one
Crux roof. I would not call it 5.8 more like 5.7
first placement in thin crack
|By lars johnson|
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 6, 2007
The post forgot to mention the $$ pitch, #4. Mantels to long reaches if you are under 5'9" [5.8] and then a series of small roofs to a bolted belay on the left. Pitch 5 is usually skipped as it is dirty and loose. Pitch 3 rappel is 105' not quite reaching the bolts with a 60m rope. No worries as it is a huge ledge.
Very fun route and nicely protected. Leave the big pro at the car.
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 22, 2008
Pitches 1 and 2 combine at 185'. Pitches 3 and 4 combine at 198'. From there, a short final pitch (~50') leads to the top and a straightforward walk off.
Jul 21, 2008
Kind of a boring route with false-advertising in the SuperTopo and a one-move wonder to push the grade. The thin-crack first pitch is fun to look at, but not that stiff. Bring micro nuts if you're not comfortable with run-outs. The third pitch offers the single 5.8 move, a high-step and smear over a well-protected roof. This would be a good practice climb for folks without slab experience.
From: Burlingame, CA
Feb 10, 2009
The 5.8 roof feels contrived; in fact, when leading I didn't see the bolt and chose the easier variation 5' to the right (with solid pro, even!) that avoids the 5.8 altogether. After bringing up my second I lowered down so I could do the roof--it was fun but not remarkably so.
I am not as sour about the last pitch as most seem to be--it is a little dirty, but probably only because no one does it. I like P1 best.
|By Tim Camuti|
From: Placerville, CA
Aug 16, 2009
Great climb with many interesting roofs in the final pitches. Guidebook (Supertopo) lists 5 pitches to the top, we linked 2-3 and 4-5 for a fantastic climb, a lot of fun with a variety of moves and rock. Final pitch was dirty, short 5th class, then 4th, belayed off the Juniper on the summit.
I agree with Lars Johnson that pitch 4 is a lot of fun. If you are climbing on Hogwild after this, then rappel is OK. Otherwise, save the time and just climb out and walk down to the campground or the Leap itself.
|By Floyd Hayes|
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Brilliantly contrived! I like slab so I really liked this climb, even more than Bear's Reach and Surrealistic Pillar, but less than Corrugation Corner, and did it twice within a few days. The first bolt on pitch 2 is a bit off the deck, easiest to reach by traversing in from the left. The crux 5.8 overhang was fun, even if a bit contrived. Pitch 5 wasn't much fun, appeared to have a few options (I traversed right to the "hanging tooth" and then back left), and my rope wound up running over a disconcertingly jagged 4' edge just left of the "hanging tooth." When rappelling from the 4th anchor, pitch 4 is about 95' (best to tie a knot at the ends of a 60 m rope) and pitch 3 is a few feet longer than 100' (60 m rope ends dangle several feet above the big ledge).
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Sep 14, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I'd say P1 is the crux to lead as protection is poor until you reach the thin left-slanting crack (UK grade HVS 4b/c). The start of P4 has harder moves (long reaches; UK VS 5a) but very close to bolts. It seems very contrived to go direct round the overlap on P3 as there are big holds just to the right. With double ropes it's easy to make 2 abseils back dowm.
From: san mateo
Nov 5, 2012
Great climb to take someone up if they are new to multi-pitch climbing. With all the bolted anchors so close together you can bail at anytime and rap with one 60m. IMO 1st, the 4th(?) bolted reachy pitch, and the top-out pitch with the tooth thing are the best pitches. Top it out.
|By Elizabeth Leddy|
May 29, 2013
I sincerely regretted topping this out. There are no rap rings at the very top, just a tree, so bring bail gear or carry shoes up and hike down.
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 11, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Easy slab to run up. Pitch 4 has one easy 5.8 move. Fun friction climbing.
|By JC w KC redux|
Jun 29, 2014
I heard from Forrest this past weekend that there are now some variations to the route. Does anyone have details?