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It's A Wanderful Life 
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When The Whip Comes Down 

It's A Wanderful Life 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: JSt, EFR, Justin Manring,'11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 557
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Sep 26, 2011
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JSt on the FA. Note how far left he is. He is st...


70M ROPE REQUIRED A long and winding route that takes a lifetime to get up. Really cool to do as one long pitch just be sure you are not using those silly little dogbones or the rope drag will make the top really unpleasant. Can be done as two pitches but it is really cool to do it as one. Be sure to use long (not quite shoulder length) draws at the two bolts below the big roof to reduce rope drag. After the first set of anchors do not be afraid to wander way left to keep this climb in the grade. The climb wanders way way left then up then way back to the right to surmount the roof at the right apex. Tricky to figure out but really good when you do. You can also do the first pitch as it is a good warm-up for the crag and is probably 10-.

We had two ropes so Jim fixed it and rapped off so I could lead it on the other. If you have only one rope carry your rap device and do two raps to the ground then your buddy can do the same and clean it on the way down.


The center of the lower angle amphitheater between Bon Ami and Master Blaster. Starts on a ledge about 20 feet up. Climb face just right of a small right facing dihedral.


22 Qickdraws a couple of 18 inch or longer for the two bolts below the big roof. Do not do it with short dogbones.

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It is a long long route.
It is a long long route.
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By Jimbo
Oct 21, 2011

Did this again today but did it in two pitches. Rope drag was a non issue this way. If you have a problem with a bit of rope drag when you climb I would recommend doing this route in two pitches.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 1, 2011

Appears that this route is harder than we thought as it has yet to be onsighted. Could be that they are not taking the hint found in the name. Left farther left would be a better name. Even with that there is some pretty tricky footwork at the crux which is also creating air time for many.

By Jimbo
May 8, 2013

Jesse Shultz on sighted this route a few weeks ago and he led it as one pitch.

By Jimbo
May 26, 2013

Oops, Clay on sited this route.

By Dj telle
From: Tucson, Arizona
Sep 29, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

good climb. crux was tricky but not too bad to figure out. Idk about the 11+ rating though

By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 30, 2013

Thanks for the input. If more people would do so we could get an idea what the grade should be.