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It's A Wanderful Life 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: JSt, EFR, Justin Manring,'11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 674
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Sep 26, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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JSt on the FA. Note how far left he is. He is st...

Description 

70M ROPE REQUIRED A long and winding route that takes a lifetime to get up. Really cool to do as one long pitch just be sure you are not using those silly little dogbones or the rope drag will make the top really unpleasant. Can be done as two pitches but it is really cool to do it as one. Be sure to use long (not quite shoulder length) draws at the two bolts below the big roof to reduce rope drag. After the first set of anchors do not be afraid to wander way left to keep this climb in the grade. The climb wanders way way left then up then way back to the right to surmount the roof at the right apex. Tricky to figure out but really good when you do. You can also do the first pitch as it is a good warm-up for the crag and is probably 10-.

We had two ropes so Jim fixed it and rapped off so I could lead it on the other. If you have only one rope carry your rap device and do two raps to the ground then your buddy can do the same and clean it on the way down.

Location 

The center of the lower angle amphitheater between Bon Ami and Master Blaster. Starts on a ledge about 20 feet up. Climb face just right of a small right facing dihedral.

Protection 

22 Qickdraws a couple of 18 inch or longer for the two bolts below the big roof. Do not do it with short dogbones.


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It is a long long route.
It is a long long route.

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By Jimbo
Oct 21, 2011

Did this again today but did it in two pitches. Rope drag was a non issue this way. If you have a problem with a bit of rope drag when you climb I would recommend doing this route in two pitches.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 1, 2011

Appears that this route is harder than we thought as it has yet to be onsighted. Could be that they are not taking the hint found in the name. Left farther left would be a better name. Even with that there is some pretty tricky footwork at the crux which is also creating air time for many.
By Jimbo
May 8, 2013

Jesse Shultz on sighted this route a few weeks ago and he led it as one pitch.
By Jimbo
May 26, 2013

Oops, Clay on sited this route.
By Dj telle
From: Tucson, Arizona
Sep 29, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

good climb. crux was tricky but not too bad to figure out. Idk about the 11+ rating though
By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 30, 2013

Thanks for the input. If more people would do so we could get an idea what the grade should be.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
May 17, 2014
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I didn't onsight, messed up the beta at the crux. Once Jim gave me some tips felt like about mid 11. Will add to the ratings even though I haven't gone back to tick it.

PS Got on this again a couple of years later and missed a hold at the crux again.

If you want it to feel like low 11, it's probably better to do as two pitches. Even if you manage to completely eliminate the rope drag by using all 25 cm quickdraws, doing it as one pitch is probably gonna feel at least a letter grade or two harder just because of the weight of the rope.
By K-Tanz
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jul 27, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I think. 11+ is appropriate here. The crux is in your face and difficult and exiting the roof is no cake walk. The rest of the climb is straightforward and fun. First pitch could make a good warmup. Quality route!