Itchy and Scratchy
|1,476 page views|
|Type: ||Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 60 feet|
|Consensus: ||WI3 M2-3 [details]|
|FA: ||Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell, January 08|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Winter cold spells|
|Submitted By: ||Tristan Higbee on Jul 29, 2008|
Brett Anderson belayed by Tristan Higbee on Itchy ...
Drytool up the rock just left of the ice (M2/3ish), past 2 or 3 bolts (there are 3 bolts there, but sometimes the top one is covered in ice) and then traverse right onto the ice to finish on Pipe Dream left side.
A good intro to ice and/or mixed climbing.
Some call this area Pipe Dream (all of the water comes from a big ol' pipe a few hundred feet up), and others (the Wasatch mixed climbing guide) call it the Kitty Litter Wall.
The area where this route is located is alternately called the Kitty Litter Wall and the Pipe Dream wall.
To get to the wall, park in the west parking lot of Canyon View Park, near the (incredibly nice) public toilet. The ice is visible from the parking lot. Walk west along a paved footpath until you see a bridge. Cross the bridge and continue to walk west. After a minute or two, you should be able to barely see the top of some ice over the trees. Turn right (north) off the trail (there used to be "No Trespassing" signs, but not any more) and make your way to the wall.
Just left of the pure ice line Pipe Dream on the left side of the ice wall. Two or three bolts (depending on how much ice there is) should be visible.
3 bolts, a few screws. There are some old chains and bolts near the top, but they're hard to find if there's a lot of snow.
Christian Burrell ready to top out in Itchy and Sc...
Brett Anderson high on Itchy and Scratchy.
|Comments on Itchy and Scratchy
|By Tristan Higbee|
Jul 29, 2008
(I also posted this on the Pipe Dream page)
Also sometime in early January, Christian Burrell, Brett Anderson, and myself climbed another two pitches on top of this route. We're not sure if the upper two pitches had been climbed before (probably has). Brett led the first pitch, I led the second, and Christian led the third. Each pitch is easier than the one preceding it.
From the top of Itchy and Scratchy or Pipe Dream, walk north over a (sometimes) frozen stream to a small, 20-foot high WI2-3 ice pillar. Sink in a couple screws above that to belay from.
Climb the very low-angled, very easy (but relatively thin--Brett bent one of his picks on the rock underneath) WI2 ice up to the base of the cement wall/pipeline. Use screws to belay from. There is a square shaped hole in the wall that all of the water that forms these climbs come from.
We just traversed off to the left and didn't need to rappel.
This is probably the easiest multipitch ice climb in the canyon.
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Oct 11, 2008
A VERY cold weekend actually got the whole thing to freeze up. We were tempted to climb all the way up into the hole itself. If you want an easy first multi-pitch ice route, this is it.
The second pitch starts a bit back and right of the lower wall. A short but really fun step leads to an ice slab. Belay at a ledge.
The third pitch is so low angle that I was almost walking. You can stop right at the wall.
We were able to carfully walk off to the west.
From: SLC, Utah
Oct 17, 2008
The ice in that area has been climbed for years...It is a great area with fun intro to ice opportunities. there have been smears form down canyon in the limestone that have been climbed as well.
Jan 28, 2010
I think that you might have meant Canyon View Park, not Canyon Glen Park. Canyon Glen Park is higher up-canyon, beyond Squaw Peak Road I believe. Canyon View is closer to the pipeline area.
I couldn't figure it out this morning until I realized it must have been a typo. Otherwise it is spot-on. Thanks.
|By Tristan Higbee|
Feb 1, 2010
Right! Thanks for catching that. I fixed it in the description. Also, I went here over the weekend and the "No Trespassing" signs that have been up for the last couple seasons are no longer there. Sweet!
|By Ben Brutsch|
From: Lindon, Ut
Aug 26, 2012
There are four more sets of chains to the right (east) of Itchy and Scratchy allowing top rope access to most of the wall. There are some fun little roofs and mini caves out here but the rock gets worse the further right you go.