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Italy  


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Location: 43.4848, 11.9971 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 330,574
Administrators: Tim Wolfe, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: eDixon on May 25, 2007
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Climbing in Finale Liguere, photo: Bob Horan Colle...

Description 

In Italy, there are all types of climbing to be found. The country is full of possible destinations. An abundance of everything from sport climbing to long, alpine routes. In addition to a variety of climbing styles, are the various types of stone. Much of the climbing is on different types of limestone, however, beautiful granite can be found as well. Check it out, you won't be disappointed!

Getting There 

There are a variety of major cities that can be flown into. Just pick the one closest to your selected climbing destination.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.9 miles from here

290 Total Routes

['4 Stars',41],['3 Stars',130],['2 Stars',93],['1 Star',22],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',43],['5.7',24],['5.8',25],['5.9',34],['5.10',128],['5.11',30],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Italy:
Via delle Guide   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Cinque Torri Group : Torre Grande West Summit
Northwest Corner   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 300'   Torre Seconda (Second Tower... : Torre Barancio
Fedele   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 26 pitches, 2625'   Passo Pordoi Area : Piz Pordoi
"Spigolo Jori," SE Arete   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 15 pitches, 1350'   Pomagagnon and Cristallo Gr... : Punta Fiames
Southeast Arete Via Alvera-Menardi   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1000'   Lagazuoi , Fanis and Contur... : Col dei Bos (Cima Bois)
South Pillar, a.k.a. “Mariakante”   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 9 pitches, 820'   Passo Pordoi Area : Piz Pordoi
South Face Buttress 1, a.k.a. “South Arete”   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 14 pitches, 1100'   Tofana Group : Tofana di Rozes
Kasnakoff   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 820'   Passo Sella Area : Second Sella Tower
South Face (Via Miriam)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 530'   Cinque Torri Group : Torre Grand South Summit
Vinatzer   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 13 pitches, 985'   Passo Sella Area : Third Sella Tower
Cima Piccola – South Arete Yellow edge   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 1100'   Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei ... : Cima Piccola
L'Arco dei Guaitechi   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 195'   Monte Sordo : Settore Centrale
Messner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 820'   Passo Sella Area : Second Sella Tower
La Torre   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   Monte Cucco : Settore della Torre
Schubert (Friendhip Route)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 820'   Passo Sella Area : Piz Ciavazes
Big Micheluzzi   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 12 pitches, 820'   Passo Sella Area : Piz Ciavazes
East Face "Via Finlandia"   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 450'   Cinque Torri Group : Torre Grande, North Summit
North Face - Comici   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1475'   Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei ... : Cime Grande
Cima Ovest-North Face - Cassin   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei ... : Cima Ovest
South Face, Buttress 2, Pilastro Route (Constantini/Apollonio)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 19 pitches, 1500'   Tofana Group : Tofana di Rozes
Browse More Classics in Italy

Featured Route For Italy
View from low on the route, looking towards summit...

"Spigolo Jori," SE Arete 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Europe : Italy : ... : Punta Fiames
The route follows several easy pitches of the Via Commune , until the ledge system for a rising traverse across the face to the base of the Arete becomes obvious. The angle steepens and climbing becomes somewhat more challenging, but never extreme. The "crux" involves a series of moves around a corner onto the East face where a wide crack is surmounted back onto the arete proper. This is a leaning offwidth that is liberally supplied with pitons, and may approach 5.8 in difficulty. The options be...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Italy Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing above the vineyards in Finale, photo: Bob...
Climbing above the vineyards in Finale, photo: Bob...
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Ahh...

Comments on Italy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Forestvonsinkafinger
From: Iowa
Oct 22, 2009
As many world class routes there are in this country, I am surprised at the lack of action on MP.com for Italy. I suggest we all take a group outing there.
By Matt Marino
From: Georgetown, MA
May 12, 2010
Does anyone have any information on Riva Ridge in Lizzano Italy? It was the sight of the 10th Mountain Division's first combat in WWII and being a former 10th Mountain Soldier I'm trying to make a pilgrimage.
By SYBold
Nov 1, 2012
For extensive topos on the various crags of Italy (and other regions)see the Italian version of MountainProject:


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