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Italy  


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Location: 43.4848, 11.9971 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 255,946
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: eDixon on May 25, 2007
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Climbing in Finale Liguere, photo: Bob Horan Colle...

Description 

In Italy, there are all types of climbing to be found. The country is full of possible destinations. An abundance of everything from sport climbing to long, alpine routes. In addition to a variety of climbing styles, are the various types of stone. Much of the climbing is on different types of limestone, however, beautiful granite can be found as well. Check it out, you won't be disappointed!

Getting There 

There are a variety of major cities that can be flown into. Just pick the one closest to your selected climbing destination.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.9 miles from here

265 Total Routes

['4 Stars',42],['3 Stars',116],['2 Stars',85],['1 Star',21],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',40],['5.7',24],['5.8',22],['5.9',32],['5.10',119],['5.11',24],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Italy:
Via delle Guide   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Cinque Torri : Torre Grande West Summit
Northwest Corner   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 300'   Torre Seconda (Second Tower... : Torre Barancio
North Face   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Torre Seconda (Second Tower... : Torre Barancio
Fedele   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 26 pitches, 2625'   Dolomites : Piz Pordoi
South Pillar, a.k.a. “Mariakante”   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 9 pitches, 820'   Dolomites : Piz Pordoi
Southeast Arete Via Alvera-Menardi   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 12 pitches, 1000'   Fanis Group : Cima Bois
South Face Buttress 1, a.k.a. “South Arete”   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 14 pitches, 1100'   Dolomites : Tofana di Rozes
"Spigolo Jori," SE Arete   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 15 pitches, 1350'   Pomagagnon Group : Punta Fiames
South Face (Via Miriam)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 530'   Cinque Torri : Torre Grand South Summit
Kasnakoff   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 820'   Dolomites : Second Sella Tower
Vinatzer   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 13 pitches, 985'   Dolomites : Third Sella Tower
South Face, Buttress 2, Pillar Rib (Constantini/Ghedina)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 18 pitches, 1400'   Dolomites : Tofana di Rozes
Cima Piccola – South Arete Yellow edge   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 1100'   Dolomites : Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Messner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 820'   Dolomites : Second Sella Tower
Big Micheluzzi   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 12 pitches, 820'   Dolomites : Piz Ciavazes
Schubert   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 820'   Dolomites : Piz Ciavazes
Abram Arete   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 12 pitches, 1000'   Dolomites : Piz Ciavazes
Comici   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1475'   Dolomites : Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Cima Ovest-North Face - Cassin   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   Dolomites : Tre Cime di Lavaredo
South Face, Buttress 2, Pilastro Route (Constantini/Apollonio)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 19 pitches, 1500'   Dolomites : Tofana di Rozes
Browse More Classics in Italy

Featured Route For Italy
Sole Incantatore

Sole Incantatore "Sun Charmer" 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13  Europe : Italy : Cala Goloritze
A stunning route to the summit of the spire. Mostly less than vertical, with a few bulges the route is sustained and tricky to onsite. A good mix of crimps, tricky footwork and even a bit of lay backing, steep limestone slab baby! Pitches go at 5+, 6b+, 6c, 6b, 6c. First two pitches can be linked. Some of the crux moves can be aided but don't rely on it. Pitches 2, 3, and 4 had many different bolts and picking the right line to follow can be tricky....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Italy Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing above the vineyards in Finale, photo: Bob Horan Collection
Climbing above the vineyards in Finale, photo: Bob...
Ahh...
Ahh...

Comments on Italy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Forestvonsinkafinger
From: Iowa
Oct 22, 2009
As many world class routes there are in this country, I am surprised at the lack of action on MP.com for Italy. I suggest we all take a group outing there.
By Matt Marino
From: Georgetown, MA
May 12, 2010
Does anyone have any information on Riva Ridge in Lizzano Italy? It was the sight of the 10th Mountain Division's first combat in WWII and being a former 10th Mountain Soldier I'm trying to make a pilgrimage.
By SYBold
Nov 1, 2012
For extensive topos on the various crags of Italy (and other regions)see the Italian version of MountainProject:


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