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It Is It 

5.12a

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
FA: Edwards, Gupta, Gould (1995)
Season: Year round*
Submitted By: andy patterson on Sep 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This route starts about 80 feet to the right of Ezra (5.9+) on a slightly overhanging face right over the water. The crux is the first 15 feet: think bouldery, think slick, polished feet.

(*) High water would make the start very tricky, if not impossible.


Protection 

Bring four quickdraws and there are two cold shut anchors at the top.



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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 24, 2009

Originally called "Unnamed 5.12a (5.10, A0)".

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Feb 24, 2010

Mike, that's not true (maybe on this site). I bolted it and climbed it on the same day. Great rock, actually, but a bit short, hard to start, and often underwater. The crux is the very first move, as I recall. I had to dry a foot that is perpetually wet before each try. If you pull through the first move it's 5.11 A0.

By ryan mattock
Apr 29, 2010

been wanting to climb this route. will update....

By Alexander B.
From: Ojai CA
May 27, 2010

Great little route...Im glad Mr. Edwards is able to chime in from the SLC :]
Super good rock, cool bouldery start, and well placed bolts make this a perfect first 12 for someone.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 15, 2010

Ditto. This was my first 5.12. And yes, per Mr. Edward's comments, I had to dry a certain critical foothold. Think: bouldering with a rope.