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Elysian Buttress
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Elysian Buttress Original Route 
Isle of Fortune 
Mechanical Persistence 
Pastime 
Unemployment Line, The 

Isle of Fortune 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 240', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: c. kirk, m. loseth
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 371
Submitted By: ckirk on Nov 8, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Isle of Fortune.

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Description 

Starts on west facing side of formation.

P1. Climb up finger and hand cracks 80 feet moving left under a bush to a 2 bolt anchor.
P2. More hand and finger cracks up towards another bush. After 50 feet or so move left on face to another crack system that leads to 2 bolt anchor at ledge.
P3. Climb crack in the corner for 60 feet or so to two options for a finish. Both lead to a ledge with 2 bolt anchor.

Linking P 1 and 2 would be fine. Linking P3 will likely cause enough rope drag that the pitch would not be as enjoyable.

Rap the route with a single 60m rope.


Location 

First major buttress to the East of Unemployment Line. There is a major drainage that leads right up to the base of the formation that you can see as you approach the area.


Protection 

Single set of cams form .3 to 3. Set of nuts, Offsets useful. 6 or so runners. One 60m rope. Can bring a bit extra in finger and hand sizes if you want to link.



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By Jeff Edge
Jun 18, 2013

Tried this a little over a week ago, assuming I was on the right route it went something like this: 30ft scramble up 3rd class to poor sloping belay stance (optional) then an awkward start on incredibly chossy rock (I put a cam in one of the pockets just above the deck to keep me from rolling down the scramble if I came off). Then you can either pull the 10a crux move with no gear or put something in the loose flake you're lie backing. I chose the former, you then get some decent gear for the easy moves to the ledge and walk it left for 30 ft. Here you end up in a corner with a ton of old aid gear (old heads and rivets everywhere). Now you either take the shallow (and I presume I unprotectable corner to the belay or you bail left towards the face route that has a shiny bolt nearby. Clip this bolt then climb 35-40 more feet clipping only fixed heads and other aid mank (5.9). Traverse to anchors (with chains attached via aluminum biners?) and rap because climbing a 3rd pitch of aid seams just doesn't look that fun. All in all an interesting adventure route

By ckirk
Jul 25, 2013

Sorry you had trouble finding the route. There is a fair amount going on on this wall, I can see getting confused your first time. Perhaps study the photo I posted if you consider giving it a second shot. The bush at the top of the first pitch is a good landmark for the route. Certainly pack your sense of adventure when you head out for this area. There is no fixed gear or lead bolts on this route... Only two bolt anchors.