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Is this space too small for a woodie?
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By ChuiSan
Nov 15, 2012

cyberbackpacker wrote:
I am building a woody myself, and researched t-nut prices too, and really you cannot beat element climbing right now... %25 off their list price and t-nuts in quantity ship free. 2000 t-nuts for ~$143 (just a little over 7 cents each).


Thanks for the headsup. That's $10 cheaper than cheapholds! I will be ordering from them.

@Will - I do have a gym membership but some days I just don't have the time to get out there, its not that far but could take close to an hour each way some times with traffic. I am thinking of using the home woodie during my busy months when I can't get out but will still make going out to the gym my first choice. I would like to climb 4x a week off season and at least 2 of those using my membership at the gym.

Keeping motivated is my main concern too, I don't want to not use it after its put up so I am going to try very hard to. I just paid for a used HIT system so can't back out now :)


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By Dana Bartlett
From CT
Nov 15, 2012

You might consider a random pattern of T-nut placement: I did that on my first two home walls. If you are doing a grid then the moves are all multiples of that distance. That can certainly work, of course, but it could be limiting on such a small space. If you place the T-nuts here/there/everywhere it may be possible to be more creative with the problems you set.

Good luck!


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By ChuiSan
Nov 25, 2012

ChuiSan wrote:
If we do it, I would probably put a 10x8 at 45deg (with a 6" kicker) on one of the 10.5 wall which will come out about 6' on the ceiling and then a 8x6.5 30deg on the opposite wall, I will have about a foot on the ceiling between the 2 walls which I will put a couple of roof jugs on so I can go up one wall and down the other.


I have now ordered my t-nuts but I am in a dilemma again. My climbing partner keeps finding flaws with the above plan. Like Lanky suggested, he thinks when the feet cut on the 45, they will hit the other wall but I am not convinced they will and I am willing to even make it 20-25 deg to ensure that. He thinks I should have just 1 wall at 60 deg so I can have 10x12 of climbing area instead of 10x8 which will also mean that I cannot have the less steep wall. But I think 60 deg maybe too steep, I want to improve my finger strength so not climbing all on jugs (mini/finger jugs on 45 will be ok), I would also like to work on slopers & pinches which I am weak on but I can't put them on the 60deg.

So what do you think? is having a bigger climbing area more important?


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By BMJ
Oct 3, 2013

ChuiSan wrote:
I have now ordered my t-nuts but I am in a dilemma again. My climbing partner keeps finding flaws with the above plan. Like Lanky suggested, he thinks when the feet cut on the 45, they will hit the other wall but I am not convinced they will and I am willing to even make it 20-25 deg to ensure that. He thinks I should have just 1 wall at 60 deg so I can have 10x12 of climbing area instead of 10x8 which will also mean that I cannot have the less steep wall. But I think 60 deg maybe too steep, I want to improve my finger strength so not climbing all on jugs (mini/finger jugs on 45 will be ok), I would also like to work on slopers & pinches which I am weak on but I can't put them on the 60deg. So what do you think? is having a bigger climbing area more important?


I recognize this post is old, but any chance you went through with this? I'm considering building a home wall in my basement, which also has a low ceiling, just under 7 feet. I'm trying to decide whether to go with a 45 or 60 degree overhang or both.


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By ChuiSan
Oct 7, 2013

BMJ wrote:
I recognize this post is old, but any chance you went through with this? I'm considering building a home wall in my basement, which also has a low ceiling, just under 7 feet. I'm trying to decide whether to go with a 45 or 60 degree overhang or both.


i did go thru with the wall and ended up with a compromised angle of 50 with a small roof section. 50 is plenty steep enough, I need lots of jugs, maybe if i train on it more regularly, i will be strong enough to use smaller holds. I have used it a bit and i am glad its there for when I am busy. my gym membership runs out in a few weeks and i probably won't get another one until after Christmas, so will put our woodie to good use. Although I will have to say, I will be more motivated to use it if its has a lot more holds....

If my ceiling height allows me to put a 8 foot panel up at 45, I will definitely do that instead of 50.


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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Oct 7, 2013

Got any pics?


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By ChuiSan
Oct 8, 2013

divnamite wrote:
Got any pics?


will try to get some up in a couple of days, parents in town at the moment ....


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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Oct 8, 2013

ChuiSan wrote:
will try to get some up in a couple of days, parents in town at the moment ....

Thanks! My basement is similar in size. I'm debating if i should just hangboard instead of wall.


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By BMJ
Oct 9, 2013

Yes,pictures would be great!

You addressed this to an extent above, but would you prefer a 45 to your 50 because it would allow you to use slightly smaller holds? In my case, I could build a 45 degree wall that's 8' feet long with about an 11" kicker. But if I made the wall 60 degrees and shortened the kicker a bit, I could make the wall 12 feet long. I'm wondering if that extra length is worth the trade offs that come with the steeper wall. I don't know if I mind the difficulty of the steeper wall -- I could start with big holds and add volumes for some smaller ones. But I am concerned that climbing on a 60 degree wall would involve more specialized climbing movements that don't translate as well to more varied angles. Finally, I'm considering building both angles, but one of my plans would only allow for an 8' wide wall, and I don't know if it would be as useful to have one panel at 45 and the other at 60; that might make problems that traverse across the panels less feasible, although I'm still thinking about this.


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By ChuiSan
Oct 10, 2013

Will work on getting the pictures when parents gone.

Yes, I would prefer 45 over 50 so that I could use smaller holds (also because I am a weakling). I mostly do routes outside and the climbing is generally not very steep. So training on smaller holds on less steep wall will benefit me more than on jugs on steep. But I my space is very limited and that is the only reason i make the wall 50 (its actually about 52 :D)


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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Oct 28, 2013

ChuiSan wrote:
Will work on getting the pictures when parents gone. Yes, I would prefer 45 over 50 so that I could use smaller holds (also because I am a weakling). I mostly do routes outside and the climbing is generally not very steep. So training on smaller holds on less steep wall will benefit me more than on jugs on steep. But I my space is very limited and that is the only reason i make the wall 50 (its actually about 52 :D)

Any chance you can post some pics?


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By ChuiSan
Oct 29, 2013

sorry I totally forgot about it, here you go ....

wall
wall


wall1
wall1


wall2
wall2


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