Is this normal? (Toe holes in Miuras after 6 months)

Toe holes in Miuras

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Holey Miuras!
So I got a pair of Miura laces about 6 months ago, and the toes are already starting to go. Is this normal?? I climb about 3-4 times a week in a gym and have been going outdoors 1-2 times per month. I think it was my last trip to the Red that did them in...very surprised that the toe rubber is torn already, though. I'm a low 11 climber, decent technique (no foot dragging, a usual culprit in early foot wear). Has anyone seen shoes go this fast?

Not a shoe issue, more technique and climbing a lot on your toes.
You probably need to pay better attention to your shoes and get them resoled before you start chewing up the rand.

My first pair had to be resoled a little over a year. BUT i didn't wear them inside at all (climbing outside 2-3 weekends a month plus a few week trips).
My guess, it's the 3-4 times/week in the gym that's killing your shoes. But yes the muiras wear through a little quickly under the big toe.

That's why you have cheap gym shoes and save the good ones for outside.

Why didn't you get them resoled earlier? They look difficult to salvage now

length of time or technique issues aside, those shoes are beat to f#%k! You should have resoled them 3 months ago from the looks of it. As soon as you're wearing thru the sole at the edges and more rand starts getting exposed, it's time to send them in.

Fun fact, if your shoes wear in that pattern, you are dragging your toes.

JohnWesely wrote:Fun fact, if your shoes wear in that pattern, you are dragging your toes.

No, toe dragging would wear higher on the rand, he wore through the sole then into the rand.

Clearly not a manufacturing issue. Shoes wear from use. If your footwork is developing they usually wear faster. If you stop wearing them when the wear gets to the glue seam (roughly) you can get them resoled for a fraction of the price of buying new ones.

If I resoled them 3 months ago, that would have been 3 months after buying them! I've switched to mainly using my Moccs indoors, but it's still crazy how fast these wore through. One possible factor is that I've been mostly climbing at a brand new gym (First Ascent in Chicago), and the holds are still pretty rough...my hands don't look a whole lot better than the shoes, lol.

It's the nature of gym climbing. It's not the holds that wear down the tips of the toes but the abrasive wall they are bolted to. Most people place their feet on the climbing hold after contacting the wall and sliding down onto the hold itself OR simply the toe just contacts the wall and when stepping up the rand rotates down the wall abrading the tips. Try not to touch the wall at all with your feet.

SRB25 wrote:It's the nature of gym climbing. It's not the holds that wear down the tips of the toes but the abrasive wall they are bolted to. Most people place their feet on the climbing hold after contacting the wall and sliding down onto the hold itself OR simply the toe just contacts the wall and when stepping up the rand rotates down the wall abrading the tips. Try not to touch the wall at all with your feet.

This, on my left big toe I tend wear into the rand with my gym shoes. I just send them off and have a toe cap put on.

I bought a pair of Muiras used at the REI garage sale. They lasted me two years of using them basically every day both in the gym and outside. They were used my first full season at Indian Creek and even held up there using them on most climbs. They've oddly been the most durable shoe I've ever owned.

Ted Pinson wrote:If I resoled them 3 months ago, that would have been 3 months after buying them!

That's been about my schedule.

I'm curious, how much do you weigh? Other than my own poor technique, I wonder if some of my shoe destruction is because I weight a little more than 180lbs.

Yeah, I'm around 190, 6'3.

Grinder.

Yeah, kinda intersting. Wonder what the resole peeps think about the correlation of bodyweight of the climber, and how fast the sole wears through. It sounds somewhat obvious - my bike tires wear down super fast when I'm doing a loaded down tour, for example.

The next time I'm at the resoler, I wanted to ask them if they would suggest a firmer (and probably more long wearing) rubber for at least my gym shoes, if they thought that it would help. Right now, I think there's XS Edge on them (similar/same as the Miuras).

LongRanger wrote:Yeah, kinda intersting. Wonder what the resole peeps think about the correlation of bodyweight of the climber, and how fast the sole wears through. It sounds somewhat obvious - my bike tires wear down super fast when I'm doing a loaded down tour, for example. The next time I'm at the resoler, I wanted to ask them if they would suggest a firmer (and probably more long wearing) rubber for at least my gym shoes, if they thought that it would help. Right now, I think there's XS Edge on them (similar/same as the Miuras).

What good rubber is firmer or more durable than xs edge?

Yeah, kinda intersting. Wonder what the resole peeps think about the correlation of bodyweight of the climber, and how fast the sole wears through. It sounds somewhat obvious - my bike tires wear down super fast when I'm doing a loaded down tour, for example.

I toured for a week once with two other guys and there was a nice correlation between our weights and the tire wear.

The toe-on-wall thing that SRB describes sounds like what we'd call "smedging" outdoors.

My $0.02, Miuras' design/shape tends to promote climbing on the very tip of the shoe, and they do wear out there FAST if that's how you climb. I predict that OP will spend more time on the inside edges when he's in Mocs.

LongRanger wrote: That's been about my schedule. I'm curious, how much do you weigh? Other than my own poor technique, I wonder if some of my shoe destruction is because I weight a little more than 180lbs.

I weigh 260 and I seem to wear out outdoors shoes about the same as everyone else. But now you mention it I think I wear out my gym shoes much quicker than my friends.

I was told a stiffer shoe helps big guys feet from getting tried when edging. I use TCs, used to rock 5.10 Pinks, and Muira VS in the gym. I understand those to be stiff.

FWIW:

• My gym shoes always eventually blow out at exactly that spot (both feet)
• My lace-up Miuras blew out there faster than any other model ever has.

(I think they lasted 9 months of 4 days per week... usually I get 12 months out of a sole)

For the gym, I went back to the Miura VS after being disappointed by the lace-up Miura, both in longevity and feel.