Is this hanger sketch?

Can anyone identify this hanger? Never seen one before. It's on a 10ish route at Pocket Rocks outside Cedar City, UT.

Is it sketch?

I would guess it`s home made ....

doesn't look so bad
wouldn't hang a portaledge off of it though
homemade hangers are the best!!!

cavemonkey wrote:homemade hangers are the best!!!

Material?
Form?
Heat treat?

That's just the basics. If you want to really get into it...
Lug analysis?
Galvanic potential?
Other testing?

This looks like a bent-up sheet/plate. If you can bend the metal to that shape it's likely not heat treated, meaning it's probably as pliable as butter (particularly if it's aluminum; steel less so). If this had been an L-extrusion, it could have potentially been heat treated.

There isn't a whole lot of ligament for that lug either. Without knowing the material, though, it'd be hard to estimate the load margins/capability of that hanger.

Like they say of pitons...."clip them but don't trust them."

I would have clipped that biner going the other direction. Let the spine of the biner eliminate the outward leverage (or at least minimize it).

Gunkiemike wrote:I would have clipped that biner going the other direction. Let the spine of the biner eliminate the outward leverage (or at least minimize it).

This. If you're going to clip it, at least clip it so a fall won't break your biners nose. The hanger it self looks fairly beefy. But definitely homemade.

The bottom edge of the hole looks mushroomed over as if it has taken a few falls

sketch as heck, brah

Homemade shit show hanger. The hole was not even deburred. Seen worse though.

also,

yer gonna die.

obligatory.

Micah Klesick wrote: This. If you're going to clip it, at least clip it so a fall won't break your biners nose. The hanger it self looks fairly beefy. But definitely homemade.

Not my clip, but thanks.

As others have said, the hanger is clearly home-made and not to be trusted to hold a fall.

And although it's hard to tell from the photo, isn't that a "Nylock" nut on there? So the entire thing is bogus and not to be trusted.

Replace it, or find someone who knows what they're doing to replace it.

Aside from the crapy hanger....

John Byrnes , "isn't that a "Nylock" nut on there? So the entire thing is bogus and not to be trusted. "

Just because its a nylock does not mean its bad. Unless it had circumferential notches, you would have to remove it completely to check the SAE, ISO or ASTM markings.... if it even had any. The majority of nuts ive seen securing hangers are blank anyways.... kind of scary!!!

But using a nylock nut on a wedge anchor is a good way to ruin it by causing the shaft to spin in its placement when tightening or when that garbage hanger gets replace someday.

When it comes to hanger bolts, its better to stack two plain nuts (the lower of which can be thin) boltscience.com/pages/twonu…

CTB wrote:John Byrnes , "isn't that a "Nylock" nut on there? So the entire thing is bogus and not to be trusted. " Just because its a nylock does not mean its bad.

It does to me. It means the installer doesn't have a f-cking clue about the proper materials to use.

Since the hanger is obviously bogus and the nut is a Nylock, it's no big leap to conclude the bolt itself is some Mickey Mouse steel intended to hang your bike in the garage.

And installers who use shit materials generally don't know shit about drilling a straight hole, proper torque, etc.

Also, that metal is wicked thin. Look carefully. That's sheet metal thin.

Not good.... If you can change it with a proper one..

caesar.salad wrote:also, yer gonna die. obligatory.

Lol.