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is this a safe top rope anchor?
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By Gunkiemike
Apr 19, 2013
BHK stands for?

BIG HONKIN' KNOT

I see the bunny ears and a clove still being the best all around way to do this with rope. Does the BHK master point work with webbing?

YES, BUT IT MAY BE HARD TO UNTIE

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By God
Apr 19, 2013
YER GUNNA DIE

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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Apr 19, 2013
God wrote:
YER GUNNA DIE


damn, beat me too it

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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Apr 19, 2013
modern man
fuc, I'm stayin in the gym man

this shit sounds seriously serious

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By coppolillo
Apr 19, 2013
but if your going to bother backing anything up it should be your master point. </quote

+1

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By mr. mango
Apr 19, 2013
north wash
Is it Solid Equalized Redundant Efficient and Non Extending? Than your good to go.

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By Brad M
Apr 19, 2013
If you think that power point needs a backup, you'd better back up everything else in the system, your tie-in knot, rope, belay loop, belay device, belayer! Heck you'd better send up a redundant climber in case anything happens to your first one.

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By bearbreeder
Apr 19, 2013
Brad M wrote:
If you think that power point needs a backup, you'd better back up everything else in the system, your tie-in knot, rope, belay loop, belay device, belayer! Heck you'd better send up a redundant climber in case anything happens to your first one.


exactly .... thats a 10mm+ rope folks ... i repeat a 10mm+ rope fellow MPers

make sure it doesnt rub against an edge and yr fne ...

hell you taking whippers and walking down low angle raps will rub your tie in loop more

the anchor is fine ;)

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By Ed Wright
Apr 20, 2013
Magic Ed
Personally, I'd rather see two, seperate, master points.

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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 20, 2013
...
Personally, I'd rather see a hot naked lady...

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By Clifton Santiago
Apr 20, 2013
Locker wrote:
Personally, I'd rather see a hot naked lady...

Yer gonna die.... happy

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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Apr 20, 2013
tanuki
Locker wrote:
Personally, I'd rather see a hot naked lady...


There is a new secret underground boob thread on the taco.

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By Turner
Apr 20, 2013
Use a "Folded back overhand" for a fully redundant anchor and your good to go.

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By Greg D
From Here
Apr 20, 2013
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />
Since it is in your hallway i suspect you are tying up your girlfriend. So the only thing rubbing will be your pelvis. Anchor is fine for that.

I have seen 10mm rope get cut 1/3 of the way through in an instant. It will take only five more seconds to make this rig redundant. Do bhk or another eight at master point as mentioned. This will make it easier to untie as well.

Keep in mind dynamic rope stretches. It will rub every time you weight and unweight the anchor. If you are only taking a few runs on it, no big deal. But if many people will be taking laps you should protect points that rub. KY won't do the trick here. Use some old garden hose or some tubular webbing over your anchor legs. It won't come between you and the experience like a trojan.

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By Jon C. Sullivan
From Boulder, CO
Apr 20, 2013
approach to the Grand
It will do just fine. Back ups for both a figure 8 and a clove are unnecessary. Most people still use so called "back ups" on these, which is silly, because it is almost impossible fora clove to slide when weighted and an over hand knot or the single half hitch is kind of a joke to think of as a "back up" for the figure 8 which also, if tied well dressed and right about 4 inches of tail, will never come undone. Keeping things simple is the best way to go about building an anchor. Instead of a figure 8 tied to cord which is tied to a tree or something, just bowline directly to the tree, and clove the other side still so you can make the small adjustments like you mentioned. Anyway, it looks pretty good. Use lockers on that master point if your top roping with several people or plan on doing several laps.

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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Apr 20, 2013
At the BRC
Brad M wrote:
Heck you'd better send up a redundant climber in case anything happens to your first one.


Great idea!

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By Steve Davis
From Seattle, WA
Apr 20, 2013
First pic
Super 8 for the master point. Here's a demonstration.

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By Turner
Apr 21, 2013
the "super 8" not is not redundant know as one stand connects the two loops.

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By boj
Apr 21, 2013
nerds

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By DrunkenHaymitch
From Madison, WI
Apr 21, 2013
see the diagram on page 125 of Rock Climbing Anchors by Craig Luebben. You can probably find it on google books if you don't own it. here

As others have said the 8 and clove are fine for tying into pro/trees but I would double up on the 8s for a master point.

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By Larry S
Apr 21, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
Turner wrote:
the "super 8" not is not redundant know as one stand connects the two loops.


I agree - either loop goes and the other loop will pull thru. Not really any better than a single figure 8.

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By Jared Spaulding
From Central WY
Apr 21, 2013
On Goat Flat
Aleksei,

I think your anchor is safe. As many have pointed out adding redundancy at the master point would make it safer. I agree.
Greg D wrote:
Keep in mind dynamic rope stretches. It will rub every time you weight and unweight the anchor. If you are only taking a few runs on it, no big deal. But if many people will be taking laps you should protect points that rub.


I agree. The constant weighting and unweighting will cause stretch and contraction. When this happens over edges or sharp blemishes in the rock it can quickly develop core shots (or worse.) If the anchor is free hanging that won't be problematic. Otherwise I would suggest using a short section of static rope, cordelette, or webbing, all of which have less dynamic properties than the rope. If it is what you have, it will be fine, just pad it well.

Have fun

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By BGardner
From Seattle, WA
Apr 21, 2013
DrunkenHaymitch wrote:
see the diagram on page 125 of Rock Climbing Anchors by Craig Luebben.


Excellent recommendation.

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By wivanoff
Apr 21, 2013
High Exposure
Greg D wrote:
Keep in mind dynamic rope stretches. It will rub every time you weight and unweight the anchor.


So does static rope. People think that static rope doesn't stretch at all. It does, but not as much as dynamic rope. For static elongation, static rope is <6% and dynamic rope is <10%.

There's not going to be a whole lot of difference in an anchor made of short lengths of rope. In either case, pad sharp edges and you'll be fine.

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By BGardner
From Seattle, WA
Apr 21, 2013
Larry S wrote:
I agree - either loop goes and the other loop will pull thru. Not really any better than a single figure 8.


agreed
The only thing you really gain from the super-8 in this configuration is that it is easier to untie.
Over the years I have seen a few toprope anchors get damaged by rubbing on the rock and it was always part of the knot that was frayed. The super-8 gains nothing in terms of protecting from this.

If you look back at the original link you posted: chockstone.org/TechTips/BunnyE...
It shows using the super-8 to connect to two bolts. The context there is, setting up a fixed line, or using your rope to create a multipitch anchor. These are very different applications then a toprope master-point. A master-point for a toprope anchor is left unsupervised while you climb and moves around way to much, especially when using dynamic rope.

FLAG


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