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Animal World
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Fifth World, The T,S 
Free Willie S 
Global Gorilla S 
Gull Whackers T 
Hands of Destiny S 
Hope and Pray T,S 
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 
Isn't Life Strange S 
Joint Venture S 
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Sundog S 
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Threshold Of A Dream S 
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Tuesday Afternoon S 
Unfamiliar Strangers S 
We Don't Do Crack T 
Wine and Roses T 

Is It Ready Yet...Moe 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand and Moe Hershoff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,622
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (103)
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Bruno Hache starting up Is It Ready Yet...Moe (lef...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The start is the crux and coming out of the upper corner. Clip the first bolt and go left to the arete (crux) and then up the face (loose) to the second bolt...clip the third bolt and then fire up the nice face to the anchor.

Really good route that will get better with more ascents.


Location 

About a 125 feet right of Free Willie at a the right end of a long, low overhang.


Protection 

Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor.



Photos of Is It Ready Yet...Moe Slideshow Add Photo
1 - Is It Ready Yet ... Moe. <br />2 - We Don't Do Crack. <br />3 - Lazy Day.
1 - Is It Ready Yet ... Moe.
2 - We Don't Do Crack...
Start of "Is it ready yet...Moe." <br />
Start of "Is it ready yet...Moe."
Getting it done w/ draws in place!
Getting it done w/ draws in place!
Big holds!
Big holds!
At the 2nd bolt.
At the 2nd bolt.
Mary Riedmiller at the crux move around the arete near the top.
Mary Riedmiller at the crux move around the arete ...
At the second bolt.
At the second bolt.
Comments on Is It Ready Yet...Moe Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 18, 2013
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 20, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Does this route start on a black face, at a dihedral that could be lead on gear? I placed cams past the first two bolts - though a bush, dirt, and loose rock wasn't all that inspiring (I'm not posting some anti-bolt tirade just clarifying location). The upper section was pretty lichen covered, but with more traffic would be a nice addition to the crag - since there aren't many mid range climbs here.

By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 20, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Wrong way??? Well someone forgot to put tape on the holds so I had to be inventive.

I think you could climb either the face or crack as they are only a few feet apart at the start. Though if you climb the crack you'll want to protect it with gear - the bolts are too far out left to be that useful for protection (until the third bolt)

The crack seemed pretty obvious to me and doing it that way felt 5.9+ overall. Perhaps just 5.9 once the lichen wears away. I didn't do the bolted face start so can't comment on it's grade.

Still some loose rock on this one so keep your belayer aware.

By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 21, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Hey I was just asking originally so I could post the photo of the start for everyone...found the description a bit vague and it isn't in any guidebook yet. I wanted to make sure if I was commenting at all I was on the correct route in the database. I was asking for the sake of the next person looking at the site for a nice moderate to climb at Animal World.

IMHO, I'd say this route has two starts...one up a dirty crack...and one a somewhat contrived (but perhaps fun nonetheless) up a face past two bolts to avoid the dirty crack. They both end up at the third bolt. The natural line is up the crack, but since you have bolts to protect the moves out left people can try that also. There is no "wrong way" upwards.

The crack start would also be fun cleaned up a bit.

By Bruce Pech
May 20, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A pleasant warm up with a cool move left around the arete at the 7th bolt.

By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
May 29, 2008

If it has rained recently, this route will be soaked.

By Crag Dweller
From: New York, NY
Oct 4, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun moves coming around the two corners.

By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jul 18, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Seems awfully contrived (and wrongheaded) to move OUT of the dihedral/crack at the first bolt, just to rejoin it ten feet later before sending the upper sections. Leave it to Boulder....

At any rate, as of summer, 2011, the crack start seemed clean 'n' friendly enough. And my six-foot frame was easily able to clip all bolts without having to use any gear.

Good, fun warm-up regardless of how you mash these potatoes....

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jul 18, 2011

If you read the first comment (done 1 month after the first ascent), Paul climbed the corner "though a bush, dirt, and loose rock wasn't all that inspiring". When this route was first done in Feb. 2008, the crack was full of water and ice, hence we bolted the clean dry rock on the left. We came back in April and cleaned the corner to produce the trad route "We Don't Do Crack". The moves following the bolts left are technically more difficult. You can climb the route any way you want.

By Paul Donald Andrews
From: Nederland, Co.
May 18, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Climbed it today and loved it! The route does look kind of funky from the ground. It has cleaned up very nicely. Clip the first bolt and move out left to the arete. IMHO the crux comes after the very long reach (I'm 5'9") to clip the 5th bolt. The thin finger holds push me to give it 10a. The moves out left at the top are spacey and cool. Looks like a harder variation going straight up and over the corner. Thanks, Greg.

By JJR
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This route is pretty cool IMHO. I'm surprised to see it on here as 10a though, given that the BoCan guidebook by D'antonio calls it 9+, and I'd agree with that. I started up the crack and thought it was fun. Definitely a little tricky in spots, but I wouldn't say the climbing is 10a. Kind of creepy on lead (especially because from the 5th or so bolt, you can't see the next bolt), but if you trust your technique, you should be solid. Creepiest part is coming out onto the face near the anchors, but the hands and feet are all there. I'd recommend doing it if you're in the area.

By slim
Administrator
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Just barely a one star route. Luckily there is just enough ok climbing to make up for the contrived climbing, sections of low quality rock, and the lame, hidden 5th bolt.

By Matt Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 18, 2013

Don't know what you mean about the "hidden" fifth bolt - it was right where it should be.

Thought this was a very fun route. Moving out of the corner at the top was a nice way to finish.