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Is it possible to rappel with single rope and be able to retrieve it at the bottom?

Original Post
Bang Nhan · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 35

Hi I know this sounds dumb, but apparently I have concluded that retrieve a rope after a single rappelling from the bottom is impossible. Only if you have to get back up then you can do the single rope rappel.

am I correct? Or is there any possible way to do so?

bwalt822 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 0

Use at your own risk:
Fifi Trick

Bud Martin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 380

Anyone here done that? Looks like it sets you up for the most awful rappel ever.

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,098
bwalt822 wrote:Use at your own risk:
Dude... I can't even comprehend his question, and you show him that video?

Showing a new climber that video is practically criminal.
Evan1984 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 30

Don't do that Fifi trick (trap?). It just isn't worth it.

If you are doing a full length rap, then, yes, you would have to leave your rope until you could come back with a second rope, jug up the fixed line, and do a double rope rap.

If, on the other hand, you want to do a single line rap because you only have a gri gri or something, but you can reach the ground with a doubled rope, you can rap and retrieve your rope.

Feed the rope through the rap anchors until both sides touch the ground. Tie an overhand on a bite in one of the strands and clip it into the other strand with locking biners. Rig you rappel on the side opposite the knot, test to make sure you are on the correct strand by fully weighting your system, then unclip your personal tethers and rap.

Evan

  • **EDIT- does it blow anybody's mind that he's he's doing a demo on that fifi trap without a backup belay? The only way you'd see me on that is a life or death situation where not having my rope for the next rap would be deadly. At least he's wearing a helmet.***
Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325

Bang, seriously, this is only the latest in a series of beginner and or potentially dangerous questions you've asked here. An Internet forum is no place to learn climbing. PLEASE join the CU Alpine Club or the Colorado Mountain Club (www.CMC.org) or otherwise find a competent mentor to teach you the basics and advanced techniques. Mark doesn't want to come scrape you off a rock somewhere.

Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20

I tried to comment on all the things that freak me out about the set up but then I just got overwhelmed and gave up. I hope I never see this method. Ever.

Crag Dweller · · New York, NY · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Kevin Craig wrote:Bang, seriously, this is only the latest in a series of beginner and or potentially dangerous questions you've asked here. An Internet forum is no place to learn climbing. PLEASE join the CU Alpine Club or the Colorado Mountain Club (www.CMC.org) or otherwise find a competent mentor to teach you the basics and advanced techniques. Mark doesn't want to come scrape you off a rock somewhere.
+1

It's kind of like asking how to disengage the safety on a gun so that you can shoot it. It's one thing to ask the person standing next to you who is teaching you to shoot a gun. But, if you have to ask someone online, you shouldn't be playing with a gun in the first place.
Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20
Kevin Craig wrote:Bang, seriously, this is only the latest in a series of beginner and or potentially dangerous questions you've asked here. An Internet forum is no place to learn climbing. PLEASE join the CU Alpine Club or the Colorado Mountain Club (www.CMC.org) or otherwise find a competent mentor to teach you the basics and advanced techniques. Mark doesn't want to come scrape you off a rock somewhere.
+1
Tyler H · · Palmer, AK · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 20

He's just asking guys...

Judging by his question, it seems he is thinking things through to their conclusion in all situations.

There is no harm in asking. If he dies doing whatever, its his own damn fault. Thats the great thing about climbing. Seems like he is aware of this.

Crag Dweller · · New York, NY · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Tyler H wrote:...If he dies doing whatever, its his own damn fault. Thats the great thing about climbing...
worst comment ever!
Brett Brotherton · · Arvada, CO · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 121

I'm pretty sure that fifi hook trick belongs here

zxx · · texas · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

What a bunch of Nancys. I'd rap off that fifi, just don't unweight it mid rap.

Jason Kaplan · · Glenwood ,Co · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 3,370

you actually can do a full length rap on a single rope and retrieve the rope if you have a thin diameter pull cord (5mm) that is equal length. Look up "knot blocks" and "biner blocks" and big honkin knots. That's how you pull it off with a pull cord.

Chris D · · the couch · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 2,230

There are numerous systems that permit the retrieval of your rope after a full-length single-rope rappel that require a cord of equal length to your rappel rope. 60 meters of 5mm accessory cord is a lot less to carry than another climbing rope. Couple this with a macrame and you have a full-rope-length rappel system where you don't even have to leave any gear behind. I've never seen this used by climbers, but canyoneers seem to like to employ a lot more rope tricks for descent than climbers. I used to think the macrame was kind of spooky until I saw that fifi hook thing. Gads!

That said, keeping it simpler will generally equate to keeping it safer. You're way better off planning well and either making half-rope length rappels or bringing a second rope. I also believe that if there's a walk-off, you should use it instead of rappelling anyway. All a matter of opinion, I suppose, but you should probably have a few year of climbing under your belt before you try to employ any rappel system more complicated that connecting two climbing ropes for a full-length double-rope rappel.

Owen Darrow · · Helena, mt · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,790

Better keep your weight on the fifi hook. I would never use this

Chris D · · the couch · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 2,230
mudbuzz wrote:What a bunch of Nancys. I'd rap off that fifi, just don't unweight it mid rap.
I thought the same thing, then I thought of all the times I've unexpectedly found a reason to unweight the rope on rappel (take photos, stuck/dropped gear to booty, talk to a climber on a neighboring route, swarm of killer bees below, etc.). You better have a pretty damn good memory if you're going to count on not unweighting...unless the rappel is free, then go for it, I suppose.

I think I saw a little "flip" at the end, though, to trigger the release, in which case I would deem that system to be totally safe...except for the whole "friction knot on a rubber band on a fifi hook" part. That's just not cool.
Bang Nhan · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 35
Phil Lauffen wrote: Dude... I can't even comprehend his question, and you show him that video? Showing a new climber that video is practically criminal.
Yeah, I am not gonna try that myself at all. I was well told and understand the physics, that single rope rappel and recovering the rope at the bottom is sketchy. But I have heard people mention it, so wonder if it's just urban legend or not.

Thanks for the concern and warnings!
Bang Nhan · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 35
Brett Brotherton wrote:I'm pretty sure that fifi hook trick belongs here
+1
Bobby Flowers · · Tacoma, Wa · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 20

+1 mudbuzz

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

Google "Reepschnur".

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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