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Is it a send?

Original Post
David Eisenstadt · · orlando,florida · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 560

Okay, I climbed my first 5.13 ever, I think. I climbed it top to bottom, clipper every clip and all that. But... near the easy beggining of the route, my foot brushed a hold, I asked if it was on and my belayer said no, through that situation I didn't weight it. I cut my feet off to change to a proper foot and continued to climb and send. I was really happy but its been bugging me, I keep thinking it wasn't a legal send. MP input?

David Eisenstadt · · orlando,florida · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 560

Arg I'm peeved :[

Daniel Trugman · · Reno, NV · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 1,225

Doesn't count if it's in the gym. ;-)

Seriously, if you didn't really use the hold, I'd count it. If you feel comfortable calling it a send, then call it a send.

David Eisenstadt · · orlando,florida · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 560
johnL wrote: Yep. You might have just proved to yourself that you're capable of sending a 5.13 though. Or not. I don't know how your gym rates things.
They set the route, get climbers who have climbed as hard if not harder outside, and rate to see hard it is from top to bottom.
Brian Milhaupt · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 860

Just try it again without the hold in question. And give yourself an edge, like being better hydrated or mentally rehearsing the moves. Chin up, you can do it!

Jeff Fox · · Delaware, OH · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,320
David Eisenstadt wrote:I climbed my first 5.13 ever...I climbed it top to bottom...
It only counts if you climb it bottom to top! Sorry, do over. ;-)
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

If you feel weird about it than you know the answer.

But, seriously. We're just rock climbing. Not curing cancer. Don't sweat it. Do it again if you are unsure.

Stiles · · the Mountains · Joined May 2003 · Points: 845

Arno Ilgner would be sooooo disappointed with your query. Congrats on the high number, though. It is an impressive indicator.

A good rule of thumb: If there is any doubt, there is no doubt.

-----

Can a climber claim 5.13 having led one route in the gym? This sounds like a perversion of the sport. Although John Gill created a whole new sport called bouldering. Perhaps the climbing community has created another whole new sport worthy unto itself called gym climbing.

The problem here lies in continuity, though. Everyone who climbs a route outside adds to a consensus of the grade of difficulty. In a gym the artificial and short-lived route is typically set by a single person creating a close representation of the grade and naming it so.

I believe it ALL comes down to who you want to claim a 5.13 to, and why such claims matter.

Brigette Beasley · · Monroe, WA · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 275

Did anyone else notice that this guy is *14 years old*? Way to climb, David!

I agree with Brian - try it again. No need to worry about this one send (or not). It's not a single 5.13 climb that makes you a 5.13 climber, it's being able to consistently climb at that level, inside and/or out.

Keep up the good work, and best of luck to you!

Aaron Martinuzzi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 1,485

I was working a boulder problem the other day with my buddy and, more quickly than I expected, sent it. Problem was, it was over so quickly I couldn't tell if I sort of pushed off the ground during the first few crux moves or not. Moral of the story: I did the moves, but something didn't feel right until I repeated the problem and finished it with that good 'I sent it' feeling. However, if I was your belayer, I wouldn't hold it against you.

As far as gym climbing goes, my attitude has always been that it's practice. What I climb in the gym might be a good indication of what I'm capable on rock, but I wouldn't tell a potential partner I climb 5.12 because I did a couple in the gym. That said, your send is nevetheless impressive - congrats.

TBlom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 360

This kid is 14, lives in the flattest rockless place in the country, and climbs way harder than me... Dude, you should move away from Florida when you get a chance, it might do you some good :)

P.S. why combine "legal" with climbing? (rules,rules,rules) The dab at the bottom probably didn't help you that much at the top!

Eli Helmuth · · Ciales, PR · Joined Aug 2001 · Points: 3,456

Gym climbing doesn't count for anything, period.

David Eisenstadt · · orlando,florida · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 560
Eli Helmuth wrote:Gym climbing doesn't count for anything, period.
:/
Shane Neal · · Colorado Springs, CO. · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 265
Eli Helmuth wrote:Gym climbing doesn't count for anything, period.
Why? Because you say so? From a long time old school climber, thats a weak statement. Maybe your old school ways have you blinded that time's have changed and man and technology made indoor climbing possible and part of our sport. People build careers off of it. It IS just another form of climbing, and no matter what you climb, IMHO, a climber is a climber.

We all know being on the sharp end on real rock is a whole other game- but surly a man w/ your experience cant use that to jusity writing off a young man's efforts? Or anyone's in a gym for that matter- join the 21st century bro. Plus, he lives in Florida. Open the mind man- it wont hurt, I promise.

Good job on the send David- seems legit to me, cept maybe in a comp- keep it up! Move to CO. ASAP when you turn 18. :)
Sam Lightner, Jr. · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,732

Well done David. ITs a great accomplishment, especially for a 14 YEAR OLD. You should be proud.
Sam

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
Eli Helmuth wrote:Gym climbing doesn't count for anything, period.
Good thing, because I've been climbing for as long as this kid has been alive, plus half again, and a year or two to spare...
And I can't get up the gym 13's, brushed hold with a foot or no.
Jon Ruland · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2007 · Points: 646

kids these days with their rock gyms and their music.

darrell hodges · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 380

Did you do the sit start?

Shawn Mitchell · · Broomfield · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 250

Do mom and dad know about your composite plastics habit? And that you "accidentally" abused recommended usage? At least your conscious is bothering you.

Leveille · · Appleton, WI · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 105

as long as the ladies were down with it, its a send

Phoenix · · louisville, colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 310

For real little bro, look in to CU Boulder for your collegiate candidate. You will love yourself for it, that is unless you think that there is more money in hard pro climbing than having say a masters degree..... Just don't let climbing get in the way of your education. I would like to be there to see the look on your face when you hit the Front Range coming from Fl. You would likely flip the f*#k out at first glance of the Rockies, I know I did!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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