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is a little inflammation OK? (hangboarding Q)

Original Post
5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

Well, since this forum is kind of...quiet...I thought I'd post a random Q. Since I have been starting to train harder on the hangboard, especially on two finger pockets, I've noticed that my fingers will sometimes become sorta inflammed/tender, especially immediately after the set. I'm assuming this is normal...its not PAIN by any stretch of the imagination and I'm assuming its just the normal response to pushing beyond normal boundaries.

In your experience, is a LITTLE finger inflammation normal/acceptable while hangboarding or is it indicative of a possible future tendon injury???

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

cool! Its the next day and fingers feel fine...muscles on the other hand are still toast :D

I was 99% sure it was not injury inducing but I am still curious how other people's bodies react to hangboarding.

thanks Mike!

Darice LG · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 75

I've been having the same experience with my fingers and hangboarding, so I'm glad you asked the question.

The last time I hangboarded the tendon along the length of my finger felt tweaky and actively sore when I bent it so I stopped and iced immediately. It went away after the icing but it made me a bit paranoid so I'd be curious to know other people's experience with hangboard training with mild inflammation in the joints.

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40
Darice Lee wrote:I've been having the same experience with my fingers and hangboarding, so I'm glad you asked the question. The last time I hangboarded the tendon along the length of my finger felt tweaky and actively sore when I bent it so I stopped and iced immediately. It went away after the icing but it made me a bit paranoid so I'd be curious to know other people's experience with hangboard training with mild inflammation in the joints.
what position (pocket, crimp, openhand...) do you think caused the tweakiness? Maybe you need to take a step back with that position and return to your weight you were using (maybe that means even rigging up a pulley system so you can take weight OFF for that position).

I used to only open-hand the hangboard (out of fear of an injury) but now since starting to train again I am using the crimp position (actually do this on a bit of molding scrap screwed in next to my hangboard) and also do two finger pockets...my theory is that if I systematically stress those positions then an injury will actually be LESS likely.
Ryan Palo · · Bend, oregon · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 605

Id get that from time to time doing max hangs. Nothing to fear so long as you dont have any pressure sensitivity.

Darice LG · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 75

I do open hand and half crimp on the small edges. I sometimes don't complete the open hand sets but feel close enough that I haven't thought of taking off weight. For the half crimp ones I'm already taking a lot off. So it's probably from the open hand, which makes sense as it feels different from the soreness I used to get from crimping. I'd like to continue what I'm doing though so it was encouraging that the tweakiness went away pretty quickly with ice, though my finger felt easily given to being sore again the days afterward.

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

yeah I'd be careful if I were you if you are into icing to relieve pain/sensitivity! I obviously do not know what I am talking about though.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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