Is a down suit needed for Denali?
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Or, will down pants and a down parka suffice? |
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Crag Dweller wrote:Or, will down pants and a down parka suffice?You talkin' about a winter ascent? Or a standard season ascent? If it were me (and it was), if you were thinkin' you'd summit sometime in June, then maybe forget the down pants and just take a parka. But, I wore a stretch cap. farmer john type "suitee" and with light cap under that, with a down coat, was plenty warm on summit day. Just me, maybe, but I don't find that my legs get that cold. If you have gaiter on, up to below the knees, and a down coat that goes down over the waist, then you have very little of the leg area exposed. Cheers. |
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I've always taken Puffball Pants by Patagonia as a backup and also as leisure wear around 14,000. When I use the pants in conjunction with a big (not HUGE) down parka I'm pretty comfortable in May or June. For me down pants would be too much. |
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The only time I was on Denali (in late-May, 1996), I wore a 700(?) fill down parka, but no down pants. I was fine with a polypro base, a light-ish layer of some sort on top of that, followed by a 200-weight fleece layer, then my Gore-Tex. That being said... at one of my potty breaks, I reached down to discover that something down there had gone numb. Scared the hell out of me, and for the rest of the trip I had a spare wool glove stuffed in there as well. |
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Well I have no idea what I am doing answering this thread but I have read a bunch about high altitude mountaineering. It seems that Denali is one of the worst mountains for folks showing up unprepared for trying to climb it. I've heard that groups from all over the globe arrive without the proper gear or experience. I know that Denali is one of the most unforgiving mountains to make that mistake on. Standard fare in the old days was to climb most 14ers here in Colorado first, then progress to the volcanos in Mexico next (17,000 ft.). After that Mt Hood and then maybe on to Denali. Remember the mountain is at 62 degress north latitude and is known to be the coldest mountain on the planet. Go with all the experience that you can get, dress in layers and have all of the necessary gear to be safe. Pick some good partners, plan your ascent well and then and only then; go kick it's ass. Good luck, and come back safely to the people that love you. It's not more important than they are! |
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Depends on the weather- seems to be warming up a bunch last 10 yrs. Worn as many as 7 layers bottom and top each and still cold with overgaitors and big plastic boots. Russians passed by us in summer hiking boots and thin wool pants and sweaters not seeming to notice the -35F with wind conditions. Down pants would have been nice - one piece gore-tex suits and farmer johns do make a difference up there and you can't have a down jacket big enough for that peak...unless it's warm? |
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Yeah, don't forget the long underwear! |
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I was on Denali once and just wore a down suit for the first time on Cho Oyu. I would not take my down suit to Denali unless it was a winter ascent. My one trip to Deanli we had good weather - wore up to 3 layers on bottom, up to 4 layers PLUS a huge down coat on top - this was good. Flexibility for weather changes is good. On Cho Oyu, my down suit was great on summit day and great to sleep in, but on sunny days on the glacier I metled in it. Plus, down suits weigh 60 ounces or more, and are not very flexible as far as adding/substracting layers. For Denali I would take a HUGE down coat with down filled hood, warm farmer johns underlayers for up high, and maybe, maybe down pants if your legs get cold (mine don't). Forty Below overboots are great for Denali too. |
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If you're going with a guide company, then ask them what they recommend. If not, then see what they recommend anyway by clicking on the links below. |
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But wait, there's more... |
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I would not take a down suit unless you are going in winter. A big hooded down parka and puffy synthetic pants are the way I rolled up there. If you talk with the rangers they highly recommend synthetics. The books listed are great reads for getting ready for Denali. I think Surviving Denali would be at the top of my list as it tells all the mistakes people have made and how to avoid them. If you are interested I can dig up my clothing list and send it to you. It worked really well. I took into account many of the newer fabrics and clothing that are available now. I think the guided group lists are updated as well. |
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thanks, everyone, for the helpful input and the reading recommendations. looks like i can cross down suit off the list of expenses for the trip, which is nice. |
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Sunny-D wrote: If you are interested I can dig up my clothing list and send it to you... Food lists would be fun to see as well, I have mine. It is pretty hard to find food lists for that mountain. Take things you like to eat. Our favorite meal on the mountain was HOT DOGS (with buns). I like to cook so we had breads and other baked items as well. I have that list and could send it over if interested. DallenI'd be interested in those lists and any advice you might have, as I'm headed that way in 2011. |