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Seul Avec Dieux Boulder
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4on6 
Irreducibly Complex 
Prow, The 
Seul Avec Dieu 
Tall Mans Problem 

Irreducibly Complex 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: David Asscherick
Page Views: 526
Submitted By: Greg Parker on Jun 18, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Here's a silly photo of me on the ridiculously har...
Check NPS for Closures

Description 

This surprisingly hard problem is just to the left of The Prow. It starts in an obvious groove and heads straight up. The top hosts some tiny little crimpers that seem to want to spit you off. It's a great problem to sandbag your friends on. David did this problem quickly and told me it was V4. The next day he showed it to me and we both proceeded to fall on it time and time again. After we both managed to get up the thing, the grade was raised to V6.


Protection 

pad, spotter



Photos of Irreducibly Complex Slideshow Add Photo
3rd shot. Bring your right hand up to what you originally grabbed with your left...
3rd shot. Bring your right hand up to what you ori...
The "Seul Avec Dieu" Boulder showing four of the problems on the North and East faces of the boulder.  This boulder is to the South of Mt. Baldy.
BETA PHOTO: The "Seul Avec Dieu" Boulder showing four of the p...
Here's the 2nd shot of the series. Hard move. Sorry for the bad quality (iPhone photo of a print).
Here's the 2nd shot of the series. Hard move. Sorr...
4th shot. Top out.
4th shot. Top out.
Comments on Irreducibly Complex Add Comment
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By Greg Parker
Administrator
Nov 18, 2003

Apparently, the grade now has been raised to V7 or even V8! That makes a bit more sense if you read my description. V4, Dave?

By David Asscherick
Dec 31, 2003

My own little Amish Power! V5, Greg? Ha!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jan 19, 2013

This problem seemed close to impossible. I would love to go out there with someone who has some beta. Me and a much stronger guy than me tried this problem for a very long time and came up completely emptyhanded.

By Greg Parker
Administrator
Jan 22, 2013

Ha. I warned everyone in my description! This thing is ridiculous! I have a sequence of shots somewhere showing a repeat ascent (the photo above is part of the sequence). If I can find them, I'll post them. I don't remember the exact sequence, other than desparately tic-tacking my way up on tiny crystals.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jan 22, 2013

Please sir. Find them.

By Mikel Cronin
Jan 24, 2013

I also have a hard time on this one. One thing that sticks in my mind is pressing super hard up on a high right foot. It made my right toe feel like it was going to explode. Some people make it look easy though.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Feb 1, 2013

Thanks Greg. Will be out there again in May or June. Need to look at this one again now.

By Christian B. Baird
Feb 4, 2013

I recently sent this on my birthday,Coin gave me a gift of good new beta! I used a high right knee bar, squeezed my left hand out of the sidepull/gastone/knee bar. crimped left above, and bumped my knee bar up slightly and reached my right hand to a good crystal at lip. It went quick with this beta. Hope someone else tries. Thanks Coin!