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Ironmongers Super Direct
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in 05: Pedestal Buttress
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All The Way T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Angle of the Dangle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Assume the Position T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Birch Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blow-up T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chimney's End T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Condolences T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Congratulations T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Creation Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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D.L.F.A T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dog, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dyslexia TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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End Of The End, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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End, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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F4 Ledges T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Flake Route T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Golden Ledges T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hourglass T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hourglass Direct TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ironmongers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lethe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lower Diagonal T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Modern Art TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pedestal, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pete's Lament TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pine Box T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Rich and Famous TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sometime Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sometime Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Sometimes Left Side TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sometimes Right T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Stretcher, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sweatshop T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Upper Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Welfare Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Sheldon Smith, ground up 1966 |
| Page Views: | 962 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tony Brengosz on Jul 10, 2012 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
This is the face 5 feet left of Ironmongers. Sven says that everything except the corner is on, but I found the grade to be accurate only if you stay on the face and don't use any holds in or to the right of the crack on Ironmongers.
A bit of history and clarity from Jim Erickson:
"This 20-foot, very contrived boulder problem was, in 1966, the hardest lead at the Lake. It was done by Sheldon Smith ground up, placing 2 soft iron, knife blades in the first ten feet with no chalk in a pair of Spider kletterschuhe. He didn't fall, but lowered off once after pounding in the first pin. He then went back up, placed the second one and sent. None of us could follow, despite many attempts. It goes straight up the thin crack to the bucket on Ironmonger's. Within reach, but not allowed, are the huge right arete side- pull and 2 fairly good edges within 6 inches of the arete. A year later, the amazing Tom Higgins easily top-roped it on his first try, chalkless in a pair of Kronhofers! It took me about 15 tries to top rope it over the next 4 years "
A bit of history and clarity from Jim Erickson:
"This 20-foot, very contrived boulder problem was, in 1966, the hardest lead at the Lake. It was done by Sheldon Smith ground up, placing 2 soft iron, knife blades in the first ten feet with no chalk in a pair of Spider kletterschuhe. He didn't fall, but lowered off once after pounding in the first pin. He then went back up, placed the second one and sent. None of us could follow, despite many attempts. It goes straight up the thin crack to the bucket on Ironmonger's. Within reach, but not allowed, are the huge right arete side- pull and 2 fairly good edges within 6 inches of the arete. A year later, the amazing Tom Higgins easily top-roped it on his first try, chalkless in a pair of Kronhofers! It took me about 15 tries to top rope it over the next 4 years "
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