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The Shaft
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Iron 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Head Crew
Page Views: 263
Submitted By: Bill Ballace on May 5, 2007
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Description 

Fun climbing leads to a horizontal break, and a rest. Clip the bolt from an undercling and pull out on to the face for a thin finish.


Location 

This is the second route on the east side.


Protection 

6 to anchors.



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By slim
Administrator
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

The climbing on this route is pretty decent, but the bolting is poor quality. The 3rd bolt is on a big, loose, saggy, hanging, chopper flake (WTF??). The 4th bolt is placed so that you can't clip it from the mail slot, but rather you have to clip it dead in the middle of the crux of the route. Luckily if you fall here, you will fall on the bolt that is in the aforementioned flake....

Definitely not the best bolting job.

By richard magill
Oct 3, 2011

I can't recall the specific first ascensionist, but it is unlikely that they are/were developmentally disabled... possibly under the influence of mind altering substances? Funny, I did this route a few times and never thought anything was out of the ordinary with the bolts. Must have been paying insufficient attention....

By slim
Administrator
Oct 4, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Richard, I can't imagine anybody doing this route and not noticing that the 3rd bolt is in junk rock. The bolt would only have to be moved approximately 18 inches down and left to perfectly good rock. The 4th bolt, if moved down the same amount would enable clipping from the mail slot (left hand), which would also be an improvement.

In its current state, I wouldn't recommend leading this route. The climbing on the route is actually pretty good, though.