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Iron Sharpens Iron
5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 3.2 from 6
votes
Routes in The Iron Wall
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Birdsong T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bong Route, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cast Iron T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Detritus Spite Us T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Evening Breezeway T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Falconer, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Honey Cwm T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Iron Knee, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Iron Potato T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Iron Sharpens Iron T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Iron Way, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Long Iron T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Low Pressure Zone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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New Potato Caboose T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pig Iron T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Steam Machine T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tire Iron T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 35.119, -111.93569 |
| FA: | J. Unema |
| Page Views: | 2,626 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Joel Unema on Jun 28, 2013 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Access via Garland Prairie Closed- Use Woody Mountain Road
Details
Description
Hand jams, finger-lock, and stem through the first third to reach a stance. Commit to the twin seams, staying left of the hand-crack to the right (a separate route), and launch into a delicate and powerful boulder problem on twin seams in iron-hard basalt. Upon reaching holds at the end of the crux, continue straight up the thin-hand crack to the final section of engaging ending, finishing at the rim. The belay ledge at the base of this climb also accesses a old-school hand-crack to the west of Iron Sharpens Iron.
The old-school route has a bong piton or something similar with some tat on it. The line is well-defined, and is not hard to follow.
Location
Located on the Iron wall. Looking at the cliff from across the canyon, Iron Sharpens Iron is approximately 30 feet left of Detritus Spite Us. Rappel off a tree 40' back from the rim, run the rope through a clearing without trees,then run the rope just to the east of a slightly dirty notch. The belay is a comfortable ledge about 70' down with two bolts for a belay anchor. Check out the beta photos to get oriented and find the climb.
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