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 ADVANCED
Spanish Fork Canyon / Hwy 6 Ice
Select Route:
Iron Oxide Falls 
Pricecicle, The 
Sixth Water 

Iron Oxide Falls 

WI3

   
Type:  Ice, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus: WI3 [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Winter (December to February)
Page Views: 1,154
Submitted By: John Ross on Jan 25, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: This short steep step is encountered during the wa...

Description 

If you're on your way back to the Wasatch Front going home from Joe's Valley and you want to swing your tools one more time, this climb is for you.

This is a reliably forming line of ice tucked away in a drainage, a short walk from the highway. If the snow is deep a pair of snow shoes are helpful for the walk in.

Protection 

Protect with a few ice screws, toprope from chain anchors, or solo (it's short and easy). Rap from anchors, hike down, or just down climb.

Location 

This climb is next to Highway 6 in Spanish Fork Canyon.

GPS: N40.00754 W111.49150 (street view available from maps.google.com)

Driving South: 1.7 miles past the Diamond Fork turn off.

Driving North: Just north of the Billies Mountain pass. Billies Mountain pass is where the highway was carved through the mountain to bypass the Thistle mudslide.

Watch for a small drainage on the east side of the road. You can see the ice from the highway. Walk up the drainage to the base.

Hint: Leave a note on your car dash explaining your whereabouts, so UHP doesn't give you an "abandoned car" sticker.


Photos of Iron Oxide Falls Slideshow Add Photo
Iron Oxide Falls from Highway 6
BETA PHOTO: Iron Oxide Falls from Highway 6
Iron Oxide Falls conditions January 19, 2013.
BETA PHOTO: Iron Oxide Falls conditions January 19, 2013.
Telephoto of Iron Oxide Falls
BETA PHOTO: Telephoto of Iron Oxide Falls
For a sense of scale, here's T. Gapmayer soloing t...
For a sense of scale, here's T. Gapmayer soloing t...

Comments on Iron Oxide Falls Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darren Knezek
Jan 26, 2008

This route has a steeper section after this 30' section to the right. I believe Billie's is about 1.5 miles from Diamond Fork and Iron Oxide falls is 1.9 miles.
By Brian in SLC
Jan 29, 2008

Pretty sure this route has a second pitch, around 10 minutes or so hike further up the drainage. DB's ice guide says its around 60 feet long, which I seem to recall was pretty accurate.

Fun diversion after a day of sniffin' or on the way back (or to) Joe's.
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Jan 29, 2008

I've hiked all over above this climb and it just flattens out into foothills and a low angle drainage. But I'll take a look again.
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Feb 4, 2008

Snowshoed up and climbed it on Thursday after work. Having left the snowshoes at the bottom of the climb, I post holed in the thigh deep snow as far up the right drainage as I could before it got too dark to see. I did not see any more ice. I've been up the left drainage before...no ice there either. Even if it's just one short pitch it's still fun.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jan 8, 2009

We did this last Saturday and I can tell you, it was not worth the approach. Really short and really thin ice (when we did it). I guess if the ice is thick it would be a good starter climb as there will NEVER be a crowd here and it is so darn easy.

There was a short steep step on the approach that in the really deep snow conditions was a bit tricky.

We did not see a chain on top at all. It was possible to walk around to the north (left if facing the falls) to get to the top.

I was also speaking to DK afterward and he feels like this route is misnamed. Apparently the other ice being described in other posts is missing because the actual Iron Oxide falls is in Diamond Fork. I have no idea what is actually the name or which falls is which.
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Jan 9, 2009

I wondered whose tracks I followed up on Saturday afternoon. Snowshoes made the approach much easier. Some of your post-holes were pretty deep. =) Agreed on the "step" thingy. Yeah, the ice was in poor condition, but barely climbable...motored up it anyway. It's certainly funner when it's in descent shape. You didn't see any chains because there weren't any until Sat. night (after which I updated the route info). Should be easier to rap or TR now.

It was DK that corrected the name when I first mistakenly posted this route as Billy's Icicle (which it isn't). Looking it up again, this route almost exactly fits the location and description in the Ice Climbing Utah guide for Iron Oxide Falls, except the guide talks about "60 feet of steep ice above and to the right" which there isn't.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jan 12, 2009

Yeah, I checked in the guide and was confused all over again. Who knows what they are describing with the mystery ice...I think you are right that this is the Iron Oxide climb.
By Morreyd
Jan 9, 2012

yea I was on the climb the other day..if it has grey and maroon marking tape it is my gear. thanks