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Iron Man 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jay Golden and Bradley White
Page Views: 2,233
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Scanned photo of Jay Golden and I doing the first ...

Description 

Climb Know Ethics 5.10d clip the anchors with an extendable and continue out the obvious overhanging crack using undercling beta. A hard move will let you get in a good position to pull the bulge to gain sweet fingerlock and a 5.8 traverse to the anchors wayyy over left.

Bring a 60m rope!

Location 

Above Know Ethics 5.10d, obvious overhanging crack.

Protection 

4 bolts to anchor.


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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 16, 2007

Hard to clean...best have someone second it and clean on the way....
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 3, 2008

Until it is retroed, avoid the top (third) pitch. It is a death pitch, with lots of loose blocks and rusty pins that break off in your hands. It will be great when it is fixed up.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 25, 2010

In other words, for or those who only know the modern routes, the original first pitch started on the ramp as for Peanut man, diagonaled right through the notch where Underdog now goes and then Polly Purebred, and over to the Know Ethics anchor. You can see old pins left for historical reasons along the way. I think the last pitch will go as it originally went, just more sustained, as you will no longer be able to work off the blocks that fell out. The newly revealed corner will probably be a separate, bolted line, maybe a top to The Thang. For now, don't climb on the 3rd pitch unless nobody else is at the crag below. It still needs a bunch of cleaning and at least the top anchor replaced.

A note about the second pitch: More than once while seconding, I have had the draw unclip from the bolt out left after I pulled the roof and started traversing( something about the angle that you approach them) If somehow the second fell when it was unclipped, they would make a big pendulum with the rope sawing across the very sharp roof. It is a good idea for the leader to use lockers on a sling or otherwise back up the draws here.

Cherry Pie deserves it's own heading (maybe after everything is cleaned up up there) I wonder why Ward left it out of the guide this time.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 13, 2010

First free ascent was Ted Hammond and you, right Bradley?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 3, 2010

Apparently, something broke just under the lip of the roof of the second pitch, so it may feel a little harder now.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"The original route is not described. Know Ethics isn't the start. The start is up higher to the left where there is a break in the cliff with plants/trees at the start. A (5.8) traverse is gained in height until at the Know Ethics belay anchors. The second pitch above Know Ethics is true and false, because after the crack climbed we went right and up at 5.6. through some questionable rock and protection. The third very exposed pitch had questionable blocks on it. The blocks are gone now from a rock slide recently.
In 1981, Ted and I switched the first two pitches. I think I did the first and Ted led the second pitch, both of us climbed it mostly on aid. We rappelled off of that little birch tree way up there in the dark. The third pitch could be better now. It's A very deep corner and some kind of finish?
It's dangerous under this cliff until all the leftover rock debris is cleared out of the way. There is a way up there from the side by using a climb called Cherry Pie (5.6). Cherry Pie (Tom Bowker) begins above the shallow corner second pitch start to Wendel's Route's third pitch (old pins)(5.6/5). Cherry pie goes left to an arch. From the arches side (trad rack needed) a climber should be able to avoid and have command over any loose rocks along the traverse in above the 5.10 start to Iron Man's original 3rd pitch. Get ready to make that first ascent?
Getting there by rappel is another less adventurous but the fastest way to reach a destination and protect it on a top rope option. As for my wise guy comments about pinning it on the lead. I was being ridiculous because there's probably nowhere above the roof crack to hammer one in. Retro-bolt it. Ted freed first the (5.11) crux."

Comment by bradley white on March 25th, 2010 7:26 am