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(from the Falcon Guide) At least one person has liked this climb, though the torture never stops.
This climb is an off-width lover's delight! Or an absolute nightmare for everyone else. It starts with a fist crack and quickly widens to the first crux of chicken winging akwardness. After your wrists hurt and you're already sore, take a rest on a nice ledge and then go into the squeeze chimney to the top.
On the south side before laceration jam area. Look for the wide crack with the obvious chock stone 5-10 feet down.
Some old pitons scattered...deffinitly want big gear if leading.
Matt Johnson on "Iron Maiden" 5.11a at Palisade He...
|By josh columb|
Aug 25, 2009
I toproped this route earlier this summer, there are two pitons that I saw, one at the ledge at the start of the route and one 10-15 ft below top out on the face (climbers left). The first half of the climb, before the midway ledge has some chockstones in it wich could be slung on lead but we used them for hand holds and that reduced the difficulty quite a bit. Getting into the crack above thew ledge was the crux. Not as hard as ahabs.