Type: | Sport, 180 ft (55 m) |
FA: | Larry shaffer |
Page Views: | 2,723 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | CURT LOVE on May 9, 2007 · Updates |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
Description
This route is mostly 5.10+, but the crux 12 ft or so above the bolt is a stiff .12 move, with really runout 5.10+ above. After the crux you have some 5.11 but mostly its really constant 5.10, and super runout.
The first 2/3 was climbed in traditional ground up, stance-only-drilling style, on a couple of pieces of gear and many pitons and knife blades (thus its name). This insanity led the first ascensionist to consider 'hooking' as a reasonable incremental advancement to Needles traditional bolting style. The route was then retro-bolted on lead and finished, leaving one good 6" long piton that could not be removed. Climbed over a 2 1/2 year period with the help of 13 belayers and 10 cheap beers (for courage).
Location
Protection
To get to the first bolt you can get some gear in just before. After the first bolt is clipped you mostly clip bolts except for one pin. After you clip the last bolt and just below the anchor you can get some small hand size pieces in which are good.
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