Type: Sport, 180 ft (55 m)
FA: Larry shaffer
Page Views: 2,723 total · 13/month
Shared By: CURT LOVE on May 9, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


6 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This route is mostly 5.10+, but the crux 12 ft or so above the bolt is a stiff .12 move, with really runout 5.10+ above. After the crux you have some 5.11 but mostly its really constant 5.10, and super runout.

The first 2/3 was climbed in traditional ground up, stance-only-drilling style, on a couple of pieces of gear and many pitons and knife blades (thus its name). This insanity led the first ascensionist to consider 'hooking' as a reasonable incremental advancement to Needles traditional bolting style. The route was then retro-bolted on lead and finished, leaving one good 6" long piton that could not be removed. Climbed over a 2 1/2 year period with the help of 13 belayers and 10 cheap beers (for courage).

Location Suggest change

To find this route walk up like you are going to Fourplay and keep heading up towards Nick of Time, Jugs, ect. On your way you will see the Outer Outlet and if you're looking you will see a 8ft wide black streak on the left side, this is the route. Start climbing up the chimney /gully which leads you to Jugs and Nick of Time, just after you start the gully climb, first step, you should be under Iron Lingerie. Don't confuse this route with the project to the right. Notice the nice boulder in the main gully just before you start to go up, its a good landmark.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts plus some small gear and hand size pieces.
To get to the first bolt you can get some gear in just before. After the first bolt is clipped you mostly clip bolts except for one pin. After you clip the last bolt and just below the anchor you can get some small hand size pieces in which are good.

Photos

loading