Iron Junkie  5.12c

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Type:  Sport, 90 feet Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Daniel Trugman on Oct 20, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. MORE INFO >>> Jailhouse has been and remains privately owned. The owner has graciously allowed an access easement and conservation easement to let climbers get to and climb at the cliff. Current access is now via the new double gate and gravel road. In the future, a new route may be necessary due to future subdivisions. For the current gate code and rules, visit www.accessfund.org/jailhouse. Some critical conditions of the easement we need to comply with include: No dogs on the property Close all gates (typically there are over 200 head of horses on the property), particularly the gate to O'Byrnes Ferry Road No loud music No fires No camping at the cliff, trailhead, or anywhere in the vicinity Access allowed only from sun-up to one hour after sundown No littering In addition, seasonal raptor closures on a portion of cliff line may be posted on the property and online if there is active raptor nesting. Our ability to climb here is contingent on our compliance with the conditions of the easement. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Really fun route, and one of the easiest of the "main area" climbs at the Jailhouse. Start on a pillar just to the left of a bush with red flowers that lives about ten feet up the wall. The crux is a short but bouldery sequence around the fifth bolt. Sustained climbing through three more bulges gets you to the anchors. Most of the holds are jugs, but there are a few tricky moves mixed in here and there.

A good route to help build the endurance and knee-barring proficiency that are critical on the harder routes at the Jailhouse.

Location 

About fifty feet left of where the approach trail intersects the wall. Look for a bush with small red flowers about ten feet up the wall. This climb is just its the left.

Protection 

Fixed draws to chain anchors