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Jailhouse Rock
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Iron Junkie 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
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Page Views: 721
Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on Oct 20, 2012

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Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Really fun route, and one of the easiest of the "main area" climbs at the Jailhouse. Start on a pillar just to the left of a bush with red flowers that lives about ten feet up the wall. The crux is a short but bouldery sequence around the fifth bolt. Sustained climbing through three more bulges gets you to the anchors. Most of the holds are jugs, but there are a few tricky moves mixed in here and there.

A good route to help build the endurance and knee-barring proficiency that are critical on the harder routes at the Jailhouse.


Location 

About fifty feet left of where the approach trail intersects the wall. Look for a bush with small red flowers about ten feet up the wall. This climb is just its the left.


Protection 

Fixed draws to chain anchors



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By Alex Shainman
From: the best place right now!
Nov 24, 2013

CONDITION REPORT 

Heads up as of 11/22/13:
The 4th to last bolt's nut is spinning off AND both the 3rd & 2nd to last fixed quicklinks (on the hangers) have unscrewed all the way and apparently have been loaded enough while open to bend and could not be finger-tightened...we did not have any tools that day.

On a good note, none of the multiple super hollow big blocks fell out on us. The starting hold at the beginning of the overhang, where a brick recently broke, is rather crunchy. Iron Junkie haha classic!