Type: Trad, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (3)
FA: Dan Hare, Jim and Dan Michael
Page Views: 8,172 total · 30/month
Shared By: James Balasalle on Oct 18, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


186 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Iron Horse starts in the double seams just right of the first pitch of Pony Express in the middle of the wall. It climbs the thin cracks to the sloping ledge with anchor chains. From there it continues up the dihedral of Pony Express till that route goes out to the arete and up to the hand ledge. From the hand ledge turn the arete to the left (Pony Express goes right from this ledge) and join the super cool finishing overhanging arete of Iron Pony going past three bolts. This finish is stellar.

If you stop at the first anchors it is about 5.11c and is fun and short. If you link both pitches to the top it is pretty solid 5.11d and with lots of excellent climbing. A hundred meter rope gets you back down with five meters to spare. DON'T try to lower with any other length of rope, belay from the top and do the two rappels. 

The Iron Horse link-up is harder than linking both pitches of Pony Express but easier than Iron Pony so...

Pony Express 5.11c, Iron Horse 5.11d, Iron Pony 5.12a

Protection Suggest change

A couple of nuts (#4 or 5 stopper goes in at the crux) and a small Friend are sufficient.

Per Dave Holliday: P2 has 3 bolts.

Photos

loading