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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 
Human Factor, The T 
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Ignore Me T 
Iron Horse T 
Knife, The T 
Lightning Bolt Crack T 
Lost in the Netherlands T 
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Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 
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Quick Silver T 
Quicksand T 
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Side Wall, The T 
Sister Morphine T,TR 
Sooberb T 
Sooberb Lite T 
Thin Ice T,TR 
Think Quickly T 
Unbroken Chain T 
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 
Warp Drive Overload S 
Who's Holding T 
Wind Tunnel T 
Zeros and Ones T 

Iron Horse 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA:  Dan Hare, Jim and Dan Michael
Fixed Hardware: 3 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,508
Submitted By: James Balasalle on Oct 19, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (92)
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Another good photo by Ben.

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the double seams just right of the first pitch of Pony Express. This route is listed as S/VS or something in the Rossiter book, but it's actually very protectable at the cruxes, and you're not in any danger of grounding/ledging out anywhere on the route. A nice, if not very sustained line. It is probably easier than the 11+ given by Rossiter, especially if you're tall.

Protection 

A couple of nuts (#4 or 5 stopper goes in at the crux) and a small Friend are sufficient.


Photos of Iron Horse Slideshow Add Photo
Starting the crux.
Starting the crux.
You can climb the small ceiling directly, being ca...
You can climb the small ceiling directly, being ca...
Paul's trying to move left onto the stance above t...
Paul's trying to move left onto the stance above t...
Routes in the Pony Express area.  Iron Horse climb...
BETA PHOTO: Routes in the Pony Express area. Iron Horse climb...
Stepping off the stance to start the crux sequence...
Stepping off the stance to start the crux sequence...
Starting the crux sequence. There are some decent ...
Starting the crux sequence. There are some decent ...

Comments on Iron Horse Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 12, 2014
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2001

Excellent face moves and an easy toprope from the rap anchors atop P1 Pony Express. Somewhere around 5.11c climbing. 4 and 5 RPs also help if leading. The gear placements are tapered and solid, but small, so placing gear provides a satisfactory tinkering experience, and all the tiny wired nuts look cool clipped into the rope.
By david goldstein
Aug 7, 2002

I think this pitch deserves an S. The crux is safely protected, but the last 20' (about 5.9) have no pro unless you detour over to Pony Express.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 7, 2003

With RPs and small tri-cams this is a well protected route. To top that, the moves are beautiful and the position excellent. An Eldo classic for sure.
By Kirk Woerner
Sep 8, 2003

I agree with David. The top of this pitch may be [relatively] easy (One 5.9 move) but gear is way below you and pretty thin to boot. [Definitely] should have an S rating.
By Joe Collins
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

One of Eldo's best thin crack pitches. Yep, this is called "Iron Horse" in the guidebook. A little contrived since you can chicken out onto Pony Express in a number of places. I guess you can give it an 'S' for the run to the anchors, but if you get through the crux, it really isn't much to worry about (maybe scarier for shorter climbers?).
By Shane DeMars
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 15, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

What a great route! It protected well enough, but may still merit the S. There are some creative placements for small cams but wires seemed to be the ticket at the crux. I got by with just my small nuts (as usual) and no RPs. The short crux made it seem like an easier eldo 11c. Overall a wonderful route well worth leading.S
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 2, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Not really crack climbing, not really 11d, and not very R.
Also not that great of a climb. It is fun, but not a classic. The second runout up top is just one committing move onto a high foot. 5.9 or maybe 5.10a, but not as hard as most 5.9+ moves (wink).
By Adub
Dec 7, 2008

This route is a blast.... However, I don't think it's an 11+....
By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Mar 6, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

Not quite up to "classic" standard, but really fun, my vote is 11b, not much pro (and at points you'd have to choose between pro and plugging up a finger jam--bring small stoppers/RPs), potential ground-fall or ledge-fall in some places.
By Rainbowweinstock
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 15, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

Beautiful crux. After doing it many times on TR and sussing out all the gear, I found that there are quite a few solid placements for the lead. One piece of note is that after the crux, before the 5.9 slab, you can get a very bomber #0.5 Camalot on the left side of the rest ledge. The piece is placed straight down into the ledge, so it is a bit odd, but it should hold a fall if you blow it getting to the anchors (which really isn't that big of deal after dealing with the rest of the route).
By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Nov 25, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

I just top roped ,but it seams if you plugged gear at the crux, you would loose your finger locks witch were already thin to say the least. But either way, so killer and desperate for me.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Nov 25, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

You can get a couple #5/6 offsets/RPs before you commit, and they don't take up the finger locks. I have never stopped to placed small cams in the upper finger locks, though. It is probably better to just continue climbing and not fall at that point.
By WadeM
Apr 12, 2014

Fun route. The crux is very well protected as I cut twice and fell onto my nut. Runout up top is not trival. If you can make it through the lower crux, you'll be fine on the runout. If in doubt, TR it first.