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 ADVANCED
Prune Face Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Iron Grit T,TR 
Iron Grit Variation T,TR 
Prune Face T 
Shuffleboard T,TR 
Straight On For You S 

Iron Grit 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Calderone, Dutschi, Oliver
Page Views: 366
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 2, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Slabbin, slabbin, slabbin...

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Description 

The left bolted line on the slab, Iron Grit has a fun bolt 1 to 2 sequence that is nice but too short. Otherwise it is still a nice climb as it follows Prune Face's finish.

Protection 

3 draws for the bolts and 2 .75? camalots for the upper grooves. chains up top.


Photos of Iron Grit Slideshow Add Photo
Mantling on the lone chickenhead.
Mantling on the lone chickenhead.
2) Iron Grit Variation  3) Iron Grit  4) Prune Face  5) Straight on For You
BETA PHOTO: 2) Iron Grit Variation 3) Iron Grit 4) Prune Fac...
Crux between bolt 1 and bolt 2.
Crux between bolt 1 and bolt 2.

Comments on Iron Grit Add Comment
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By Vince Romney
Jun 13, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The first couple of moves off the starting chicken-head are the crux (although well protected by the first bolt). It eases up shortly after passing the first bolt, but remains engaging until the third bolt, where it rolls into 5.6/5.7. Personally, I think the crux moves are actually a little harder than Cheetah (also rated 5.11a).
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 24, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

The sequence through the crux has some really interesting movement with some serious friction. The route eases up considerably after the 2nd bolt and makes for a nice cruiser.
The bolts are fairly spaced and the upper runout is really hard to justify on a route that was obviously not bolted on lead. Doesn't matter if it's easy, there are no extra style points for artificially creating a R-rated route on rappel.