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Iron Gate, VA

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Fetish Wall 
Gotham City Wall 
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Iron Gate, VA  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,013'
Location: 37.8132, -79.7997 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,209
Administrators: Aaron James Parlier, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Christine E. on May 12, 2010
Forecast:
You & This Area
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Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Iron Gate climbing area mapped on Google Earth.

Private Land: Closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fun little spot for day climbs. Easy access from Southeast West Virginia, and Roanoke Virginia area. It's close to the highway (practically on top of it!), but you don't really notice the noise, except for that of the occasional train. Bonus: not crowded.

Description from Eric Horst's, Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland: "Highly fractured, mainly vertical sandstone cliffs with mixed protection and sport climbs up to 90 feet.

Be on the lookout for poison ivy.

Getting There 

South of I-64 about 3 miles on U.S. 220. Turn off on VA 616 and park on the right (GPS coordinates given on map). Hike out to U.S. 220. There is a short, steep access climb closer to parking that is not recommended. Go a little further and you'll see an access trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.8 miles from here

28 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',5],['5.10',12],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Iron Gate, VA:
Happiness Is Slavery   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport   Fetish Wall
Mind Games   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   Fetish Wall
Clown Attack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   Gotham City Wall
Browse More Classics in Iron Gate, VA

Featured Route For Iron Gate, VA
Cleaning draws off Mind Games

Mind Games 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  VA : Iron Gate, VA : Fetish Wall
- head up arete then left up face and finish thru small overhang...[more]   Browse More Classics in VA

Comments on Iron Gate, VA Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 30, 2014
By Chase Flint
From: Lexington, Virginia
Aug 19, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 
Such a bummer that its closed :( Is there anything local climbers like myself can do to aid in the effort to reopen Iron Gate?
By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Mar 28, 2011
Does anyone have any additional routes, names, grades, photos, descriptions that they could post about the place? I see 2 more routes in the beta picture at least. Looks like a great crag, but I'm sure people would be stoked to see more info if anyone has some. Thanks!
By M.Dubo
Mar 30, 2011
i have some information i'll work on adding over next few days
By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Mar 31, 2011
HA! Thanks Dubo, I should have guessed it would be you who adds the info. I appreciate it! Seems like a nice spot.
By Dave Carey
From: Morrison, CO
May 23, 2011
This place is awesome! Pretty pleased to have climbed here. Great well protected sport/trad and some fun lines!!
By CameronS
From: Lander, WY
Feb 5, 2012
I should be back out there again soon to work on clown attack. Ill take a nice camera with me and get some high res pics of all the routes.
By Chase Flint
From: Lexington, Virginia
May 6, 2014
Does anyone know about the status of public access to Iron Gate? I've climbed there several times in the past 9 months or so and have never had any problems, but was told by a local store owner that the land has been (somewhat) recently purchased and is now closed off to the public.

From what I've gathered, the land was actually bought several years ago (2009 I believe?) but apparently the land owner has started having people arrested for trespassing in the past few weeks. The store owner told us that a few people that had been "mushrooming" were arrested within the past two or three weeks and that another local man serves as the caretaker for the land owner and patrols the area somewhat regularly. We spoke with the caretakers wife, who told us she doesn't believe they give permission to climb because of liability.

Does anyone know how accurate this information is? I've been a number of times in the past year and have only ever seen people out there once, but this is apparently a somewhat recent development.
By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
May 6, 2014
Thanks for the update Chase. If you or anyone else has any updates, please share!
By Philip Schuchardt
May 7, 2014
Looking at the Allegheny county's GIS, the Craig does appear to be on private property. Although most of the rock across the river is on Forest Service land.

You can check it out for yourself:
alleghany.mapsdirect.net/
By Chase Flint
From: Lexington, Virginia
May 11, 2014
After looking at it more closely, it looks like only a third or so of the crag is actually on private property (Looks like the Gotham City Wall portion) so I think most of the area is okay. Probably worth closer investigation just to be sure though.
By Andy B.
May 30, 2014
I just checked out The Access Fund and the area is closed for sure as of now.