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Iron Curtain Wall
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Iron Curtain 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brian Smoot, Jonathan Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 2,160
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Description 

The 3rd from the west line of bolts. Another thin beginning. This route starts thin and then once you have attained the ledge by hook or crook or mantle in my case, you have to find a way to clip that piton before going any further. The clip is reachy. I am just over 6 foot tall, and by using the 2 small ledges above the main ledge and left of the piton, standing on my tiptoes, and holding the biner to clip at the base of it and in the furthest tips of my fingers and levitating just a bit, I was able to clip it. The thin moves continue past the piton and the blank face, until you get to the more juggy but not neccesarily easier upper face. At "bolt" 3, you can work right of bolt 4 to keep it at the stated 5.10a rating, or veer left for a more difficult 5.10d rating. I only did the right version. Continue up to your anchors.

Protection 

7 draws for the climb and 2 more for the anchors. I also backed up the last piton with my trusty .75 camalot.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 26, 2012
By Lee Gitlin
Jul 2, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I wrote this review with shredded fingertips, courtesy of Iron Curtain, the testpiece (and namesake) of this wall. The start is no picnic, with very thin hands and feet gaining a decent ledge. You then have to mantle the ledge with virtually no good handholds above. More crimpy holds eventually get you to bolt 3, after which the route eases up. The top half of the climb has good handholds and goes quickly. Don't leave the crag without giving this route a go.
By vincent pierce
Oct 5, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Probably the funnest route on the wall. Mantle that ledge! Next comes a very difficult clip to a piton. You would have to be 6'3 to clip this thing from the ledge with out a problem. I am 6'1 and, same as Nathan, I had to tiptoe on two slightly higher edges to just barely clip the sucker. The prob here is, if you fall you will likely deck! So... if you are a shortie and don't feel like breaking yr legs on a sport route, you could easily do the route to the left (they share anchors) and clip it with a long draw on yr way down. Other than the sketchy clip, the route is great. The 10.d left variation makes it even better!
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jul 4, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I tried the 5.10d variation on the left, and I thought that it was easier than the beginning; nevertheless, it was fun. The features through the variation are really different from other climbs on the wall. I agree with Mr. Pierce--the second clip is incredibly sketchy. I was so glad that I was on TR--I must have slipped four times trying to get past the second clip.
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 12, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Classic climb and arguably the best on the wall, with options to finish depending on how tough you are... ; ) This has a serious fall potential if you blow getting to the piton.
By bsmoot
Apr 26, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The hard-to-clip pin has now been replaced with a bolt. It's a bit lower so short people won't curse me.

By the way, the pin was still solid.
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 26, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

THANK YOU BSMOOT!!
By phUnk
May 2, 2007

Agreed. Many thanks to the Smootster. We're headed for the Iron Curtain today!
By Alec
Sep 23, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Deceptively difficult -- Two very thin parts, between the first bolt and ledge and after the ledge past the second bolt. Felt more like .10d to me here...
By Jared Hargrave
From: Salt Lake City, UT.
Jun 2, 2008

I've lead many a 5.10a and this felt a bit harder than that. Closer to an 11 maybe? The first moves are perplexing.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 9, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Feels a bit harder than 10a to me and I still regularly blow the move to get to the rail above the first bolt. I end up doing it dynamic most of the time or dislocating a shoulder on a poor pressy move.
The 10d variation is 2 moves of contrived climbing where you force yourself to grab sloppy crimps instead of jugs.
Follow the natural line of holds and call this one 10-, there are other routes at Parley's to claim the 10d.
By Moonfri
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Climbed this today, the begining felt much harder than 10a, more like 11. Same with the moves after the 2nd bolt, but then again it might just not be a style of climing I'm familiar with. I didn't like it really. The climb just right of this however is fanominal, 3 stars in my book, with much better flow than the iron curtain.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 30, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Do yourself a favor and come back to Parley's when the temps are reasonable. All the routes are thin face/slab, they're barely climbable when it's hot.
A bomb for this route? Puuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuulease!!
By Kurt Howes
Aug 24, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The first two cruxes before third bolt are more difficult than the 10.d variation above and easily warrant a 10.c/d. Loved the route, and with the new bolt there's no worry of being too short to clip the piton it replaced.
By zoso
Feb 26, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Just read the pin was changed, and I have to admit I'm a little bummed. The crazy reach is what made the route for me.
I'm not sayin it wasn't the right thing to do though.

Funny how certain routes are burned in my memory because of the protection difficulties, more so than the climbing itself.
By Tim Golden
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I think this route is easily a .10d or even 11.a up until the third bolt. After that, it eases up a good amount. Sure I've been climbing in the gym all winter which is bound to skew my rating abilities, but I have never climbed a .10a outside that felt anywhere near this level of difficulty. Definitely have a spotter for the first clip. It's high and a little awkward.