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|Submitted By:||Andrew Gram on Apr 3, 2004|
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|re: LCC Bouldering Conditions||Josh Triplett||4 days ago|
|Comments on Iron Curtain Wall||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 2, 2004
|There is an old lowering rope just west of the main gully that can be used to well... lower down the steep hillside.|
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 3, 2004
|A lot of the bolts on this wall have spinning hangers. Just, beware of fixed protection always, but especially here!!|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 12, 2006
|All the old rusty spinners at this crag need to be replaced... If someone will teach, I will help.|
By Steve M Miller
From: Park City, Ut
Jul 30, 2011
By Paul Wilhelmsen
From: sandy, ut
May 28, 2014
Just a heads up to anyone that hasn't been here before, all the first bolts at this crag are WAY off the deck.
I went to Iron Curtain wall yesterday, and was really surprised by just how high off the deck all the first bolts are (not to mention that like 50 % are spinners). My partner and I kinda wracked our brains on the reasoning behind this but really couldn't figure it out.
For Example, the climb that most people rap down, to access the crag, is Up in a Flash. The first bolt for this climb is a spinner, somewhere around 15 ft up, and after the crux. Granted the landing area is flat and free of rocks, but thats cold comfort if you pop off clipping the first bolt and your feet are almost 10 ft off the ground.
I really loved the quality of the rock here. It's awesome, textured, pocketed and really fun to climb, but w/o a stick clip, I thought the area kinda sucked.
FWIW, I think of myself as an average climber, I am not especially brave but also not exceptionally cautious either, and I thought that every one of the 5.10a's and below had unnecessarily high first bolts.
I don't wanna turn anyone off to the area itself, It's REALLY fun, kinda like a cross between the slips and Battalion of the Saints, but if your like me and don't find it fun risking your ankles for the first bolt, bring a stick clip!!! The bolting after that seemed great.