Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
East Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Babyback 
Edgemaster 
Everpresent Lane 
Exile 
Fluorescent Gray 
Fountain of Youth 
Galactic Warrior 
Haywire 
Ilga Grimpeur 
Iron Cross 
Kent's Krack 
Knack, The 
Lightning Bolt Arete 
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber 
Stealth Slab Downclimb 
Superguide 
Unity 

Iron Cross 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bill DeMalle, George Hurley 1989
Page Views: 406
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Dec 7, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
At the end of the leftwards traverse, looking up a...
  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Good climbing on a steep slab with pebbles and a few pockets. The crux pitch wanders a bit, but is quite sustained, with the first half in the 10 range, and the second half starting with the crux move and continuing with hard 10 moves to the top. The trad first pitch starts with an awkward move at about 10a as the corner switches from left to right facing. The upper corner on P1 is easier.

    P2 starts with a traverse straight left from the belay past the first bolt to a stance at a tiny overhang. Move up and then angle right past the second bolt and then make a harder move up and left to clip the third bolt. Reach right for a jug. The crux on P2 is pulling a bulge at the 4th bolt. You're starting from a slanting jug/crack, so you might feel optimistic, but I found it very perplexing and difficult. After what felt like 1/2 hour, I found a gnarly way to do it, but it wasn't fun. Another move at the 5th bolt leads to a shallow pocket. Move right and up to a good pocket and the 6th bolt. A slightly easier move on pebbles leads to the top. Angle left past the 7th bolt (which is there to protect the second on the last hard moves) to the anchors above Lightning Bolt ArÍte.


    Location 

    Just left of the start of Super Guide is a short, left-facing corner that peters out and becomes a right-facing corner. This is P1. See photo.


    Protection 

    A light trad rack for P1 with some medium nuts and smaller cams. There are two fixed Leeper pins on the upper half of P1. The first looks very good. The second one is only half way in, but the climbing is easier on positive holds. P1 ends at a two-bolt belay with a good stance. 7 bolts plus the anchors for P2. You can place a good blue TCU or similar above the P1 belay to protect the moves out left to the first bolt. A #1/red Camalot with a long sling works nicely above and right of the last bolt to better protect the second.



    Photos of Iron Cross Slideshow Add Photo
    The crux of P1 is an awkward move where the corner changes from left to right facing. Photo by Ken Parker.
    The crux of P1 is an awkward move where the corner...
    Comments on Iron Cross Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -