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 ADVANCED
Sunshine Face - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bukatude T 
Buttress Chimney T 
Drain Pipe, The T 
First Pitch T 
Gates of Delirium T 
Golden Oldies T 
Hesitation T 
Hesitation Direct T 
Iron Cross T 
Ishi T 
Last of the Mohicans T 
Moondance T 
New Generation T 
Nirvana T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Race With The Devil T 
Red Rain T 
Sidewinder T 
Stretch, The T 
Sundance T 
Sundance Arete T 
Sundike T 
Valhalla T 
Voodoo Child T 

Iron Cross 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Charlie Raymond, Pat Callis. FFA P1 Gib Lewis, Tobin Sorenson. P2 John Long, Richard Harrison.
Season: Early Spring
Page Views: 2,857
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Mar 4, 2006  with updates from dnaiscool

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Iron Cross (5.11a)

Description 

Traverse right on a ledge to get onto a pinnacle. P1 The thin crack is taxing, but does take nuts and thin cams, the crux involves technical and slightly desperate moves. P2 Your mates' big lead. Up a shallow ramp to the meat of P2. Thin face leads to an apparent impasse, but a sly move left (the Iron Cross) bypasses this to lead to a shallow ramp with pins, more face leads to the top. A long a worrying pitch, but brilliant (when you've done it).

Location 

Descent as for Valhalla.

Protection 

Nuts, thin cams, bolts, pins.

Per dnaiscool:
P1= #3-6 Stopper,(2) #.5 Camalot, fixed pin (?), #3 Steelnut*, #2 Alien
Crux move pro...crux here feels like 5.11a++ when you are fiddling
with gear...it's pumpy, but the nut & cam are bomber.

P2= Stoppers (#3-8...bring a set), 4 bolts to crux, two fixed pins (?), #2 Steelnut,
then four more bolts to top...Extend second to last bolt w/dbl runner

In '92 when I led this pitch the last bolt was 1/2 pulled out, so I
Looped a wire cable from a small stopper over it to tie it off

Top Belay= I used a #1.5 & #2 Tricam


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Iron Cross
Iron Cross

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By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 5, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

One the most technical 5.11 climbs on this wall.A real test.
By tony grice
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Are there supost to be pins on the first pitch? There were none as of 5/3/08.Did the pin gobblin eat them?
By C Miller
Administrator
May 5, 2008

Fixed pins are usually in place, but they seem to come and go. Modern gear protects in lieu of the pins but take some effort to get in - which is why the pins are there - or not. The same thing happens over at Tahquitz on the Green Arch.
By Mar' Himmerich
From: Santa Fe, NM
Aug 26, 2008

I popped off the crux for a second and realized that the name of the route is PERFECT!
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Jun 28, 2010

No fixed pins on p1 as of 6/13/10
By ChugachMan
Sep 20, 2010

Again, no pitons on P1 as of 9.18.2010. Definitely need some pretty good small gear to protect P1. Fantastic climbing on P1, and especially P2, but a fall on P1 could have bad results as gear is tricky to place.