|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Eric Rhicard, Jim Scott, Vince Bates|
|Submitted By:||Chris Prewitt on Oct 21, 2009|
|Comments on Iron Butterfly||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 21, 2009
|When lowering back to the ledge the climber needs to unclip a lot of the higher bolts as getting back to the ledge is a real rope stretcher. You also might find out that your 70M rope isn't 70M long as Jimbo and I did one day. We didn't tie into the belay end of the rope either. We tied a figure eight into the end and with some ropes the climber returned to the ledge as the knot wedged into the belay device.|
Jun 15, 2010
70M rope stretcher is no joke! My group used two different 70M ropes and each one was a complete stretcher. While unclipping every draw on the way down, we found that the climber had to clip a long sling to the belay station as the belayer let the tail end of the rope go through the belay device. Definitely a good idea to have a knott in the end of the rope until the climber is clipped in somewhere.
The route is listed at 120ft. 70M's = 229.658 feet. So figure the rope has to stretch at least 10 feet. Quality pitch.
What an amazing line! Great job bolting this one.
Jun 16, 2010
|Incredible route - airy, long, classic!|