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Butterfly Wall
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Iron Butterfly 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Rhicard, Jim Scott, Vince Bates
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,889
Submitted By: Chris Prewitt on Oct 21, 2009

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Vince crankin at Butterfly. Jimbo Photo.

Description 

Awesome moves forever. Iron Butterfly climbs up the center of the tall central prow of the Butterfly Wall.

Location 

This is the left line of bolts from the small belay ledge on the right side of the huge prow.

Protection 

18QD + anchors, 70M rope. When lowering, climber must unclip many upper bolts and maintain contact with the belay side of the rope to prevent being stranded in space. Knot the end on this one.


Photos of Iron Butterfly Slideshow Add Photo
Stephanie shows us old dudes what it means to be flexible.
Stephanie shows us old dudes what it means to be f...
Jimbo high up with a long way still to go.   <br />The big roof crack above and to the left still awaits an assent.  <br /> <br />Photo: EFR
Jimbo high up with a long way still to go.
The b...

Comments on Iron Butterfly Add Comment
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 21, 2009

When lowering back to the ledge the climber needs to unclip a lot of the higher bolts as getting back to the ledge is a real rope stretcher. You also might find out that your 70M rope isn't 70M long as Jimbo and I did one day. We didn't tie into the belay end of the rope either. We tied a figure eight into the end and with some ropes the climber returned to the ledge as the knot wedged into the belay device.
By Red
From: Arizona
Jun 15, 2010

70M rope stretcher is no joke! My group used two different 70M ropes and each one was a complete stretcher. While unclipping every draw on the way down, we found that the climber had to clip a long sling to the belay station as the belayer let the tail end of the rope go through the belay device. Definitely a good idea to have a knott in the end of the rope until the climber is clipped in somewhere.
The route is listed at 120ft. 70M's = 229.658 feet. So figure the rope has to stretch at least 10 feet. Quality pitch.

What an amazing line! Great job bolting this one.
By RyanJames
Jun 16, 2010

Incredible route - airy, long, classic!