Start down and right of the Huge Boulder against the N/NW face of the Fiddlehead. Ascend up to & past the first bolt of Lucky Charms
, clipping it for protection on the way to the arete to the right (West).
Access the arete and plunk in gear- climbing upward to the crux shortly after a middle-sized cam (1-1.5"?) and then climb the arete to a good ledge. Move left & rap off, or continue up on the second pitch of Leprechaun Promenade
(10c) to the summit and a 100+ foot rap. Take a 70m rope or do it in 2 raps.
This climb ascends the right hand edge of the North Face of the Fiddlehead after accessing it from the left past a single bolt as for Lucky Charms
One bolt on Lucky Charms
, then gear to 2" in occasional placements up the arete. Flexible SLCDs are a good idea for the horizontals.
Chris Parks follows up the Arete of 'Irish Spring ...
Jesse Ramos working the arete of Irish Spring.
Callum lost in intense concentration on the final ...
By Jason Haas
Sep 1, 2008
Matt Samet and I replaced the single button-head bolt down low on Rip This Joint which is used for this route with a much beefier ASCA stainless bolt. Please support the ASCA if you don't already.