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Start in the center of the gray face. Start up the center of the face (5.9) to reach a crack system (look for a small cam placement about 10' up. Soon you'll reach a right arching crack- follow this up and right to 2 pitons (optional hanging belay here, or before starting the diagonal crack). A 5.10+ move or two with dishes and poor handholds leads to a slot large enough for a fist size cam. From here, about 15' of unprotected 5.10 face allows you to reach the next place for pro (both guides say there is a bolt here- but we didn't see one- don't count on it being there). The climb eases and you'll soon reach a right-leaning ledge; follow this for 15', then climb unprotected 5.9 face to a 2-bolt anchor.
Rappel the route with 2 ropes. Anchors at top of Irish Creme are about 120' to a ledge. It is possible to descend using a single 60m rope by easy down-climbing in a wide chimney.
Fun exciting climbing with just enough need to climb above gear to get your attention.
This climb is about 80' left of Black Velvet
on a smooth gray face set back a little. It's just left of a broken left facing corner left of Lowenbrau Light
. Look for a right arching crack- this feature is 1/3 of the way up the climb.
1 to 2 sets cams (with doubles in the hand sizes), 1 set nuts.
A 2 bolt anchor is at the top.
By Karl Kiser
Mar 14, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
The FA was by Karl Kiser and Matt Monagle in the early 1980s (probably 82). We did the entire pitch from the ground although one could belay at the start of the right traversing crack to reduce rope drag.
I would not belay from the pins at the end of the horizontal crack. It is better to belay at the start of the horizontal crack to reduce rope drag.
We placed no protection bolts the FA. The climb is difficult above the pins, then good cams can be placed in a crack, then up but less difficult climbing to a large pod on the left (a #4 Friend is useful), then the path of least resistance to the top