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Routes in Little Joe
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Exsqueeze Me TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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iPod T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Six Flavors T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Nick Nordblom, et al |
| Page Views: | 939 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Anthony Anagnostou on Apr 27, 2006 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
iPod follows a left-leaning crack system to the top of the Little Joe formation. It starts with a hand to fingers crack in clean varnished rock that pulls into a big flaring pod. From here, protect with wide cams, and climb in or out of the leaning varnished flare (you can climb the slopey arete just left of the crack) to the top. The crux is at the bottom, which is probably 9+ or 10a, but who knows.
Location
iPod climbs from the northwest corner of the Little Joe formation. Find the rap anchor above the bolted route to get down.
Protection
A white alien, double .75 to #3, and some offwidth cams. With the spicy-feeling climbing up past the leaning flare, i was happy with four (yes! four) big cams (new school #4 and #5 camalot, and two #6s) but you could use more or less depending on your Pansy-Quotient. You could also stuff smaller cams in the back of the crack instead of huge ones, but i thought the bigger stuff made it more fun. (I have a pretty high PQ, for the record)
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