This route is pretty good and for some reason has a sort of internet driven mystique about it.... highly recommended. Wide section is physical, and leaning, and will be the hardest 16 feet of climbing you will do all day. The crux is the thin top out to the OW that ends abruptly when your feet swing around the corner and land on a sidewalk. Be sure to protect the follower with a 1" cam or similar that you can place after the crux. Without this, the follower will for sure clang pretty heavy into two ledge systems and plenty of toothy monzonite. Ugly!
This route is located up and to the right of Gem Nabors and is easily seen from the end of the "C" loop camping area. Walk out toward the White Rastafarian and look North.. can't miss it.
Pro is good with larger cams. Nothing outlandish, just a few larger Camalots and some small stuff (1" to 2") for the crux area and to protect the follower.
Will in the middle of the business with the crux j...
Ipecac Syrup. Yummy.
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 2, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Looks like 15' of climbing, feels like 100'. The start is almost immediately above the top-out of Gem Nabors, just slightly to the right around the corner, but you can easily walk up to the start from the right on blocks and slabs (sandals and beer cooler terrain). The wide isn't the technical crux on this one, but the wide is why you get on this thing to start with. Taping or using a pad on your left tricep is highly recommended, it's a little grainy in there.
It's no joke about protecting for the second right after you pull the crux move. Anchor will likely be way around horizontally to the right. Just reach back left and add a 1" piece when you're standing on the ending ledge or the second will be looking at pulling the crux moves with a borderline decking/ definitely ugly swinging clanger into the lower wall.
|By C Miller|
Apr 10, 2007
Ipecac, or syrup of ipecac actually, is derived from the dried Ipecacuanha plant (Cephaelis ipecacuanha) and used to induce vomiting in cases of accidental poisoning.
Those with an aversion to wide cracks might find the mere sight of this crack to have that effect.