Pictured Rocks is probably the most popular climbing area in eastern Iowa. It is often busy on fall and spring weekends. During the fall and spring there are classes from the University of Iowa on Sunday that top rope on A Wall. During summer and early fall the trees provide lots of shade on most walls. Windy point often gets wind as the name implies. Rock quality is better for Pictured then other locations due to the amount of traffic the routes recieve, but this also has caused polishing on alot of routes. Due to the nature of the rock, after a good rain the rock will drip for up to a few days after the rain depending on weather conditions.
Getting There
Take 151 towards Monticello, get off at exit 65, and turn south 38s. Follow the signs to Pictured Rocks camp by turning left on 190th Street and follow this past the Christian Camps. The road will turn to gravel after the camps. This gravel road is the access road for the park. Once you get to the bottom of the hill, turn left. This will take you to the bottom of the climbs and some camping spots. Collin's Wall is right at the parking lot. Gumby wall is left of Collin's Wall, it is the wall and detatched pillar which can be seen right before you take your left into the parking lot on the left side. Chicago wall can be reached by goin to the right instead of left. The rest of the walls are accessed from the main trail as you walk farther into the park
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pictured Rocks:
Fun climb with a big flake to the right. Route can be climbed with or without flake. This climb is about 5.8-5.9 to the bulging roof where the .11b moves are. Often times just the top of this climb will be wet, making it considerably harder to finish....[more]Browse More Classics in IA
Climbers, be wary about the Hardware here. There are a LOT of rusty spinning bolts/anchors and most were placed > 15 yrs ago. That's a lot of freeze/thaw and abuse from usage. Apparently, there is talk that bolt replacement will occur in the near future but I don't believe the who and when has been nailed down.
Don't know I'm not involved in anyway. In a perfect world, glue-ins would be best for the rock and environment at PR. Probably cost 3- 4k to retrobolt the place with glue ins. Not sure who is going to come up with that $ or who has adequate experience to place them. Not sure if they would last 2x as long as mechanical but they better since they cost at least 2x as much.
A lot of this information is just ported over from rc.com. There was nothing for Iowa listed, and I noticed that no current Iowa residences had spoken up in regards to two posts asking info about Iowa climbing.
Jon, thanks for putting Iowa on the Mountain Project map. I was going to do so myself but never got around to it. I grew up in Monticello and have many fond memories of tromping around in Pictured Rocks and the surrounding area.
I am looking for a climbing partner at pictured rock or elsewhere. I climb mostly tr 9-10 at devils lake. I have most of the pro needed to lead just haven't had the chance.Would like a partner to do some extensive tr or lead at the lake or anywhere else.
By Dan Roberts From: Apple Valley, Mn Feb 16, 2009
P-Rocks is just a fun place to climb. Don't be afraid to explore up river once the trail narrows. Over the Counter is a classic anywhere so go find it.
Big thanks to who ever has been rebolting and fixing anchors (ICC?). Really appreciate all the time and effort into keeping this place a fun safe place to climb
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