This has great climbing, if this is your sort of thing. The crux is edging on a limited number of small holds, so it is all about balance and control... and edging shoes.
Climb up the moderate corner to a ledge, protecting with whatever gear you feel like tossing in. This is not the crux of the climb.
Continue up to clip 2 bolts easily, then start into thinner territory. Step up into harder climbing and clip the 3rd bolt, then the difficulty starts in earnest. Clip the 4th bolt and go left (cleaner) or right (easier) through the crux and up to the top of the arete. No way is secure, but both are safe. Height and face climbing skills both matter here. Wear edging shoes as well!
This route is near the left side of the Coliseum and is easily spotted as a low angle, right-facing corner that leads to a strangely exfoliated and clean white patch on an arete with 4 bolts.
A single set of cams to 3" and 4 bolts to a bolted anchor. The gear-protected climbing is moderate in grade.
Liz taking advantage of the last good crisp edge b...
Sep 23, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This is a pretty classy route. Nice open dihedral down low and a nice slab above. The ledge in the middle wasn't a huge detractor, although it would be a better route if the ledge wasn't there. Nicely bolted up high, although my wife said that she wouldn't have been able to hang the draw from the best stance at the 4th bolt. It didn't seem like edging shoes were necessary as the edges are pretty big. I thought this was substantially easier than the slab pitch on Lost in Time.
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 27, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sweet route!! Might be a little easier for taller people but still totally safe if your a shortie. Like slim said above no edging shoes really needed cause those edges are so crisp...Enjoy!!
|By Liz Donley|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hey, Slim, I kinda liked that ledge! I thought the route was really fun. At one point, I had to move up without handholds to speak of, but one appeared out of nowhere at just the right moment!
|By Lew Strong|
From: Loveland/Vail, CO
Jul 2, 2012
For some reason, this felt a lot easier than Lost in Time, which also felt a lot harder than Upside the Cranium or Panic in the Grey Room. The clips are all secure.
From: Boulder, CO
3 days ago
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The trad sections are fun enough. The bolted slab at the top is ridiculously thin, perhaps I've never climbed 10b/c slab - one foot on an edge which slants upwards at 45 degrees, no hands, and needing to step up a full step onto that. Yikes. Slim's description brings it right back into focus.
I'm 5'9" and didn't have a problem clipping the slab. If you're 5'2", the difficulty might be significantly higher on lead. The bolts aren't that far apart, so falls wouldn't be horrible.