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Ionic Bonding 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brian and Jonathon Smoot 1990
Page Views: 1,464
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Aug 7, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Description 

This is a fun route that can be done as 1 or 2 pitches. I'll describe as 2 pitches, but if you run it together just make sure to use some longer runners. When approaching the lower wall, this is the 3rd bolted route encountered from the left.

P1) Steep pitch through 5 bolts which traverse up and right quite a bit. Most of the bolts have been hammered for some reason. After the fifth bolt, the climbing eases considerably up to a 2-bolt anchor. Good warmup for the upper pitch! 5.9+

P2) From the anchors, this is the route that trends right. Climb through 4 bolts which pull through 2 good sized roofs. 5.11a

Descent) 2 one-rope raps with a 50m. I think a 60m rope might barely reach the ground from the top, but be careful.

Protection 

9 bolts.


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By bridger1
Mar 22, 2009

A 60m will reach the ground on this one, with a few feet to spare.
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jun 24, 2009

Pitch 1 by itself is one of the steepest (and funnest IMO) 9's in the canyon. But definately a 9+. Might feel like a 10- if your not in your game.
By Riddler
From: Centerville, UT
Oct 21, 2009

Fun, juggy first pitch. Second pitch is good but has a short crux. Donít cheat yourself by clipping the chains from below the second roof, pull it first!
By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Jul 24, 2012

I made the mistake of doing this in one pitch. Even with longer draws the rope drag was crazy! Loved the roofs up high.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Jun 16, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun climb, but that first pitch seemed a little harder than a 5.9 to me, and I consider myself a fairly decent 5.9 leader. Definitely worth doing.

Edit: Climbed this again today, still felt harder than 5.9. Awkward moves up through the roof and traversing right.