Nice right leaning crack, 3 feet right of the Narcolepsy arete.
Finally got around to doing this route, albeit only on TR. Definitely worth doing while in the Narcolepsy area! Sort of soft for a 10a, but a respectable lead requiring some small gear near the top with ledgefall potential.
First 2/3 is excellent, but the rock quality degrades slightly at the finish.
Crack is 2 inch at the start, thin in the middle and top. Small to micro stoppers, microcams, a couple medium size pieces for the start.
Anchor: 2 somewhat rusty bolts on top (the old Narcolepsy anchor); need long slings and a backup piece or 2 to TR this.
Great little route, that doesn't see enough traffic. Great gear up to #2 Camalot on the below-roof crack. Popping the roof is the crux, and the gear from here is pumpy to place and far between. I did only use one brass, but I also ran out the upper crack. From the ledge to the top, it degrades with what looks like bad rock, but nothing came off. I am glad I finally decided to give this route a go.
The anchors can be replaced WHERE THEY ARE. No need to change location. And don't argue convenience. Getting a little sick of anchors popping up all over for "convenience".
By johnny utah From: Salt Lake City May 27, 2012 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Great climb on a great crag! Not sure what folks are going on about; there is good gear on this route, albeit small gear. If you are concerned about the anchor placement, figure it out. There is absolutely no reason for any more anchors in that vicinity, there are already FOUR sets of anchors up there within 30ft of each other! It is a traditional route, climb it that way or don't bitch about it. 4-5' of runners set off the existing bolt anchors clear the lip for a TR, problem solved.
By Garrett C From: SL,UT Sep 22, 2013 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
Love this rock. Amazing exposed climbing. Felt like a 5.9+ to me. Not sure whats going on with anchors at the top though, I saw 3 sets within like 5 feet of each other...
Great climbing. Typical BCC trad featuring just a couple of jams and a lot of face. I placed a 3# at the top. Bring a single rack in sizes larger than .75, doubles in smaller sizes. Anchors are in a fine spot and have no issues.
You can TR Dream Slate with a directional off those anchors pretty easily. Just have the last man climb up to the Involuntary Release anchors and clean from there.