Great free climbing followed by some classic nailing. The free crux is the thin traverse under the detached block. Careful with your pro here!
Start up the shallow blocky dihedral to the left of "Waste Not Want Not." There is a 5.12a direct start that goes up the obvious dehidral. Traverse right on thin horizontal (crux) to good ledge. Rest, then blast the lay back to a great ledge. Start nailing from here.
North Face of Looking Glass Rock; starts left of Waste Not Want Not.
Single set of cams, extra .5- #1. Nuts. Twin ropes useful. Beaks and Bugaboos for the nailing. A two bolt anchor is fixed at all belays.
|By Rob Dillon|
Jun 4, 2009
I decided to aid the corner on my clean gear before I started nailing, and got to the anchors without having to pull up the hammer. This was in about 1994. Some fixed heads were involved near the top, but otherwise I was able to get up it with my less-than-state-of-the-art rack of that era. So folks with consideration for the resource might hold off on the bashing before following the exhortation to start nailing right off the ledge. It's still the only place I've ever got to stand on a 0 RP...how cool is that?
From: Clemson, S.C.
May 31, 2010
The block at the P1 crux is not attached to the wall. Remember that if you decide to place gear in the horizontal seam. You could pry that thing off onto your belayer.
|By Mike Holley|
From: Boone, NC
Oct 18, 2011
Superb first pitch! The initial traverse under the large flake is somewhat weird but just muscle through it and its over in jiffy. The first move on the vertical crack (protected by fixed cams) is a bit slick on the feet so don't forget about 'em or they may just go, but the rest is smooth sailing till you reach the most beautiful belay ledge of all time!!
Second Pitch is Radical in every sense! First Aid climb ever so I had a blast! Did it with nothing but small cams, small black diamond nuts, two cam hooks and a little creativity. We may have made it a wee bit harder on ourselves because of our lack of gear but it sent either way! It is pretty easy going till you get about ten feet below the bolt on the face and thats where things get "intellectual demanding", but then after the bolt its a go. Took us 2.5 hours to send the second pitch, as I said it was our first aid!
No Time for the third, but We are definitely going back to finish this classic! I heard the rope swing is a must do!
|By Ryan Williams|
From: London (sort of)
Oct 27, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2
I'm not sure what to say about the big flake. I can't imagine that a small cam would pry it off, but it is kind of scary. It was only a tad bit harder than a few awkward sections midway up the crack but I probably wasn't using my feet very well. P2 looks cool as hell, and I'd love to aid it someday.
|By Chase Petursburg|
From: Littleton, CO
Dec 10, 2011
I don't usially aid climb, but I made an exception for this. The one issue was that a few holds in the crux were gone, but it was fun. Pitch 3 isn't that fun, though.
From: Rancho Cordova, CA
Aug 13, 2012
"Crux" traverse is hardest move but is over very quickly. The initial power lieback up the crack above is kind of cruxy too. I cleaned P2 and can't imagine how it would go completely clean unless there was some fixed heads just below the bolt(which there were not). It is a very thin seam before the bolt that wouldn't take cam hooks. He ended up leapfrogging the two tomahawks that we had. to get to the bolt and the one fixed head above the bolt. I'd love to see how folks get through this section without hammering. I led P3 which was entirely foxed gear with 2-3 hook moves. No need to belay off of the top of p2. Belay in comfort down on the nice ledge for both P2 and P3. Awesome route and the best belay ledge in NC!
|By Scott O|
Aug 13, 2012
All but one of the fixed heads on P2 are gone. I ended up placing 3 peckers high up. Definitely no reason to hammer until the move before the first bolt, and I'm sure a better aid climber could have seen something I didn't.
Aug 27, 2012
The first pitch is a punch in the face every time I try to warm up on it. But, I just cant get enough, its a must do.
|By Blake Cash|
Oct 16, 2013
Funny...the "traverse" is not hard at all, although committing, not hard. It's the moves off of the ledge right after that are the hardest and mildly awkward.
|By Derek DeBruin|
Mar 5, 2014
As of 3/3/14, I would be very doubtful that P2 goes clean any more. We headed up without a hammer but I'm sad to report that all of the fixed heads (only 2 remained) are now ripped. The final section between the bolts will likely require either bashies or knifeblades since the fixed gear is now gone. Everything else went on cam hooks and hand placed beaks, though.
|By michael s...|
From: Asheville, NC
May 20, 2014
I was on this twice in Feb and I don't think its gonna go clean without the fixed gear. As far as the gear ripping, I made it to the bolt and reached up for a "fixed" bashie and it fell into my hand with no resistance.