Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m) |
FA: | Harrison Stuberg & Brooks? |
Page Views: | 1,048 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Jan 21, 2005 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route is on the aptly named "Rotten Wall" of the West Ridge. This is above the popular "Doctor Micheal Solar" area and just below the Cirque of the Cracks. After crossing over the "pass" of the West ridge, where the trail flattens out and comes back the the wall, a short distance before reaching Foxtrot and Pins & Needles, you will see a HUGE acute dihedral, hanging 10+ meters off of the ground. It grows larger/deeper as one climbs up. At the top of this dihedral, a 60 degree roof caps the climb, forcing the climber out and left under the roof and into the crack & face system above. This roof, like the dihedral system itself is shaped like a "V".
OK, now that you've hiked up here and seen it; go away... Adios!. That was the high point of the climb. Forget you ever sought this out. Leave. Don't come back. Warning! Danger! Attention! Perhatian! Awas! Bahaya! Dada!
OK, fine. Don't listen to me. Climb it if you must. But make sure your belayer can duck or hide under something. Because even if you don't tear off any rock, when your rope goes up above the lip, it probably will. The rock will drop down into the dihedral and funnel down to the base as repeatably as a pin-ball return... No, more like a bowling-ball return. For god's sake at least let them on the ground where they can run or duck behind a tree for a sporting chance.
As well, consider finishing by traversing left out of the roof across a face 20' to a rap or adding an anchor at the first tree, to avoid more lethal potential.
One of the nicest things I can think of to say about this route is that the swallows are at least shitting this thing up under the roof instead of ruining a climb that could get worse.
To descend, walk away before climbing it. If it's too late for that, make a series of raps down and sharply left from tree to tree to bolts to ground.
OK, now that you've hiked up here and seen it; go away... Adios!. That was the high point of the climb. Forget you ever sought this out. Leave. Don't come back. Warning! Danger! Attention! Perhatian! Awas! Bahaya! Dada!
OK, fine. Don't listen to me. Climb it if you must. But make sure your belayer can duck or hide under something. Because even if you don't tear off any rock, when your rope goes up above the lip, it probably will. The rock will drop down into the dihedral and funnel down to the base as repeatably as a pin-ball return... No, more like a bowling-ball return. For god's sake at least let them on the ground where they can run or duck behind a tree for a sporting chance.
As well, consider finishing by traversing left out of the roof across a face 20' to a rap or adding an anchor at the first tree, to avoid more lethal potential.
One of the nicest things I can think of to say about this route is that the swallows are at least shitting this thing up under the roof instead of ruining a climb that could get worse.
To descend, walk away before climbing it. If it's too late for that, make a series of raps down and sharply left from tree to tree to bolts to ground.
Photos
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