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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Pete Davis, Dan Hare, 2008
Season: All
Page Views: 1,521
Submitted By: J. Fox on Jan 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Mike W. leading Intuition, 1/2/2009.

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>


About 40' left of The Ground Doesn't Lie, climb a dirty/broken chimney/dihedral to a ledge, then go up the face following the three bolts present. There is a two bolt anchor on the face where it finally gets interesting.


This is in the Overhang area, left of The Ground Doesn't Lie.


Three bolts, but a large nut protects the run out before the first bolt, which is about 20' off the deck.

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Dyan raging on Intuition.
Dyan raging on Intuition.

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By Tom Shelly
Aug 8, 2009

Both my friend and I climbed this route today (8-8-09) and it was not a fun route in our opinions. The run out to the first bolt is long and unnecessary. The run out between bolts 1 & 2 is also long. The route felt more like an 8 instead of a 7. The line was full of loose rock and debris. We will not waste our time on this one again....
By Jason Jolly
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 11, 2009

Climbed with Tom... If you go to the right of the last bolt (and anchors for that matter), it's VERY brittle and loose. May not be safe.
I ended up having to go left both times to feel comfortable with holds that didn't move.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Jan 10, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Easy to protect runout below bolt 1, and between b1 and b2 if you want, with nuts or cams. Cracks are still a bit dirty, but not a problem. Some of the potential holds on right of upper section do feel a bit weak, but plenty of choices. Maybe the loose ones are gone now.
By Insta Graham
From: Denver
Nov 28, 2014

A must do... on trad. Bolts should be chopped.
Gear up to #4 Metolius. Bomber nuts! 5.7.
By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Nov 29, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun little route. I wouldn't recommend this to a 5.7 leader without rock gear to protect the run-out.
By Cameroonski
Jan 26, 2015

I will agree with the previous comment here. Not a great beginner lead (and frankly not a great lead in general) because of the run-outs. If you have gear, probably a nice a little climb with some fun crack holds and good jugs.
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