Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Bloody Fingers Corridor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Breezeway 
Featured Face 
Hough's Crack 
Intruding Dike 

Intruding Dike 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 18,607
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jun 8, 2004
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (110)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
About mid-route.

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This really good route climbs the nice looking finger and thin hands crack left of Hough's Crack on the north face of the breadloaves. Probably one of the most popular routes at the City, and with good reason.

Climb the obvious steep and lovely crack - easier than it appears. Chickenheads abound on the upper section.


Protection 

Stoppers, red alien sized cams are nice, hand sized pieces are useful for building an anchor.



Photos of Intruding Dike Slideshow Add Photo
Closeup of route.
BETA PHOTO: Closeup of route.
Intruding Dike and Hough's Crack on Lower Breadloaf
BETA PHOTO: Intruding Dike and Hough's Crack on Lower Breadloa...
partway up the pitch
partway up the pitch
unknown climber leading the beautifulo classic 5.7  <br />intruding dike.
unknown climber leading the beautifulo classic 5.7...
awesome pitch, not nearly as hard as it looks from the base.  try it!
awesome pitch, not nearly as hard as it looks from...
The Route.
The Route.
first moves...
first moves...
Me on my first Trad lead in the City.
Me on my first Trad lead in the City.
Zephyr about to get nasty on Intruding Dike
Zephyr about to get nasty on Intruding Dike
Comments on Intruding Dike Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 5, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Do what Steve says and climb the next face to the top following the same eroded dike that you climbed on the first face. A 70 meter rope will get you down from the chains. Great beginner crack climb as the stances are everywhere.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 20, 2006

Near the top of the crack on the 1st pitch, it is possible to climb runout patina jugs on the right for 30ft to the top.

By BretWith1T
From: Laramie, Wyoming
Jul 10, 2010

A wonderful little piece at the grade. A good way to loosen up those stiff fingers first thing in the morning or cruise a last pitch of the day on fried forearms.

By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 20, 2010

if you want to top rope this route and you only have a 60 meter rope don't go all the way to the top. stop about 20 feet short on the top of the huge flake and set up chains there. i made that mistake there and ended up having to belay from the top for 45 min or so.

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Sep 12, 2011

In the Bingham guide it says belay and walk off. It you TR from a gear anchor you would only need a 50m rope. Actual route length is about 65ft.

By rivercat
Oct 30, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

follow the weakness towards the top of bloody fingers [almost - gear anchor, .75 1 2] , wrap bloody fingers and get yer TR on...

By Steven Reneau
Jun 27, 2012

Closest anchors are just left of where crack tops out, past fissure. Twist and Crawl. If you have a 60m, accessible farther left are Bloody Finger anchors.

By K Baumgartner
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

A pretty soft "7". Beware of getting your rope caught in the crack once you top out of the first wall and after you down climb to begin the second wall. Look for shuts on the left once you top out.

By TNORM
Sep 29, 2013

Striaght forward 5.7. Atleast two # 3's or bigger for the anchor. I used one #2 and two #3's. For the last part of the walk off start facing the rock on climbers R, use the two pot holes for hands and traverse L and down. There use to be slings(smart idea)as this could be an ankle breaker.

By Trevor.
Oct 3, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Just a heads up, there was a huge rat living in the wide upper part of the crack as of Sept 2013.