Into the Void
|278 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 7 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.11- [details]|
|FA: ||Mark Geikenjoyner, Jason Nelson, Mike Knarzer|
|Submitted By: ||markguycan on Oct 13, 2012|
Mike following FA on "the Music Never Stopped"
P1: The Music Never Stopped- climb initially dirty ramping crack to clean steep fingers (10+) past a delicate face move to anchor. ( I dropped my Ipod while cleaning this pitch and it kept on playing)
P2:Traverse left past a few bolts and gear placements to a bolt -either pendulum to a crack or make a dicey reach.
P3:unfinished crack (go for it!) or jug fixed line about 40ft.
P4: (coil rope)4th to easy 5th class (short chimney) up and right to top of tower, then head back to main wall.
P5:Road to Nowhere- clip a bolt, mantle (10+) to slabs (5.8PG13)and traverse past horitzonal gear and a few bolts around the corner, drop down to tree + coldshut anchor.
P6:Into the Void! Lasso cold shuts (15ft gap). Tyrolean across to ledge and up to bolt, continue up 30ft to gear/tree anchor.
P7: Thin and Thick- flared fingers to flared OW (10+)130ft.
From the top of this ledge walk back thru manzanita (past a great potential campsite)to main wall and then left to access summit above Road to Nowhere start. Rap from chains, then from tree. Then rap twice more basically down the route.
downstream of West Fork about 1/4mi then up gully past BRIS another 200ft.
triple set of #00-#0.5, dbls # 0.75-#2, single #3, #3.5,#4,#4.5,#5 and a set of nuts. set of ascenders or prusiks if utilizing fixed line (also useful in tyrolean). Rap with a single 70M.
Jason on FA of "Road to Nowhere" pitch- we had no ...
Jason follows P5, great exposure, fun climbing.
MIke in the "Thin and Thick"